19 February 2018
We were very excited to welcome the lovely Laura Bianchi to London last month, to present the Castello di Monsanto wines at our dinner at the Quality Chop House.
Castello di Monsanto lies South West of the Chianti Classico region, in the hills of Barberino Val d’Elsa. It has been in the Bianchi family since the 1960s, and today is headed up by Laura Bianchi and her father Fabrizio. Having studied law, and pursued a short career as a lawyer, Laura came to the estate in 1989, and realised this was where her heart belonged. Winemaker Andrea Giovannini joined the team in 2001. The 72 ha of vineyard are all farmed using ‘Lotta Integrata’, with the 100 ha of lush vegetation that surround the estate providing a harmonious eco system, and the 2 streams that cross it (Cepparello and Amaioni) helping to strengthen and enrich the soil. There are two main soil types: galestro (rocks), and tufo (volcanic).
Laura’s father, Fabrizio, was a pioneer in his field, and the first to introduce a single vineyard Chianti Classico (in the 1960s), named Il Poggio. The 5ha of vines are perched up at 310m above sea level (Poggio meaning hill in Tuscan dialect), on poor galestro soils, with stunning views out towards San Gimignano and the Apuan Alps. The first vintage of Il Poggio was 1962. All Castello di Monsanto Chianti blends have at least 90% Sangiovese (the rest is 5% Colorino and % Canaiolo). Il Poggio, has at least 95% Sangiovese (the rest is all Colorino).
Here were some of the winning pairings:
Truffled Potato croquette
Chianti Classico Riserva 2014 – concentrated, with notes of gentle sweet spice and dark cherry. The blend includes some grapes from Il Poggio (the Chianti Cru was not made in 2014), which adds a coolness to the fruit character, and a mineral edge. Long and lingering. Elevage in used (2yrs old) tonneaux. All parcels are vinified separately and then blended (blind).
Fallow Venison, cuttlefish, chestnut
Il Poggio 2013 – purity and precision. Bright sour cherry and floral notes, with a mineral spine and silky tannins. Taught and energetic. Poised, with great potential to age. 20months elevage in Tonneaux (1/3 new, 2/3 used).
Highland rump of lamb, parsnip, kale, smoked bacon sauce
Il Poggio Riserva 1982 – beautifully complex and compelling. This was a 4* vintage in Chianti Classico. On the palate it is dark and expansive, with notes of garrigue and forest floor, dried dark cherry, leather. There is still a freshness, and the tannins are luxurious and smooth. Persistent on the finish. Testament to the brilliant age worthiness of Chianti Classico.
Il Poggio Riserva 1997 – also a warm vintage. Vivid and very concentrated. Notes of fig, cinnamon spice and forest floor. Perfectly balanced, and with a savoury umami quality, and fine, smooth tannins.
Il Poggio Riserva 2007 – a warm vintage. Cherry, sweet cinnamon and clove spice, a herbal edge, hint of thyme and lavender, silky and smooth tannins, generous and complex on the palate.
Roquefort, crackers, quince
Vin Santo La Chimera 2006 – a complex, serious Vin Santo. Nutty and rich, with notes of caramelised orange, almond, candied apricot. The acidity is perfectly balanced against the sweetness, giving the wine a lovely freshness and lift. Made from a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia. Delicious with Roquefort!
Some of the other wines tasted included:
Chardonnay 2015 – ripe peach and stone fruit, buttery and rich, with a concentrated fruit core, and refreshing acidity.
Chardonnay 2006 – white peach and apricot, lovely concentration and texture, buttery with a white pepper edge, layers of complexity, and a saline finish.
Chianti Classico 15 – juicy, with ripe black cherry and menthol notes, and finely woven, ripe tannins.