serio battista borgognoDownload
Lying in the heart of one of Barolo’s most famous vineyard’s Cannubi in the village of Barolo, this small, traditional, 5th generation family-owned cantina (winery) dates back to 1897, and to Cavalier Francesco Borgogno. More recently it was his descendants, brothers Serio and Battista Borgogno who set about developing the cantina during the 1960s and ‘70s when the emphasis was largely on quantity not quality, buying in fruit/wine to fill their outsized winery. Today the baton has been passed to Serio’s daughters Anna (Bolla) and Paola (Boffa) and in turn their offspring Emanuela and Federica respectively. Anna’s husband Marco is making the wine, aided by Emanuela and since 2012 by enologo Luca Sarotto. These days the focus is increasingly on their vineyard holding of Cannubi, with plots facing south, north/east and west, while they continue to buy some fruit in for a separate white label range.
Vinification is traditional, fermenting in large wooden vats, before racking to Garbellotto and Veneto slavonian oak botte of up to 52hl for traditionally long affinamento/elevage. They also release a long aged Riserva in good years. The Dolcetto comes from their Liste vineyard in the village of Barolo.
In vintage 2018, they launched two new wines: Langhe Nascetta & Langhe Nebbiolo!
> Converting to organic.
Barolo Riserva Cannubi
2019 Langhe Nascetta – tasted 11 March 2020, ‘hot’ off the bottling line! The second release of their Langhe Nascetta from estate vines in Diano d’Alba & Sino; the latter giving zip! Indeed, this year they’ve gone for an unoaked affinamento, which has clearly helped to frame the lovely fruit expression. Helped by the late-ish vintage, the wine explodes with candied agrumi (oranges & lemons), fresco & potente, it’s pure spremuta! On the palate, there’s more of a rich but crunchy fresh, pesca bianca sciropo, it’s richly textured but also glacial, with mandarin skin/zest, confident if slightly presuntuosa!
2019 Dolcetto d’Alba – tasted 17Jan’20, from tank prior to Feb’20 bottling. 12.5%, continues to come from their old single vineyard from the fancied Barolo cru of Liste, on cool sandy/clay/marne, it’s a vineyard that runs adjacent to a steep gorge & wood. Given the vintage, there’s a richer, fuller feel (even at 12.5%), more masculine than the feminine 2018. Black pepper, frutta di bosco, darker, smouldering…need to retaste once bottled.
2019 Langhe Nebbiolo – also tasted 11 March 2020, ‘hot’ off the bottling line! And also the second release of this Langhe Nebbiolo from a 3 yo declassified single Barolo vineyard called Albarella, just below Cannubi, facing NW, that surely gives ‘slancio’ (class) to this unoaked wine! Already approachable, thanks to the age of the wines: such a pretty, bright pinky violet red, the nose a swirl of glacier rose, of perfumed kirsch fresh fruit, very seductive; the palate crunchy & pure, with raspberry essence, glacier cherry & blood orange notes, racy & exciting, the quality of the fruit clearly defined, back by a thunderous vintage!
2018 Langhe Nebbiolo – Tasted May 2019. Bottled mid/end Aril 2019. To be released in Summer 2020. 14.5% alc. Stainless steel only. Fruit from single vineyard Albarella, just under Cannubi, with 5% fruit from Diano d’Alba. 250m asl. This was the first harvest for these young vines (planted 3 yrs ago). 2500bts produced. Soils are quite clay rich and less compact, with more influence from La Morra. East facing. 2018 was warm, but actually cooler than 2017. Very juicy and alive, such bright energy and generous, succulent fruit, paired with racy acidity, ripe and fine tannins. So pretty, pure, and delicious!
2017 Nebbiolo d’Alba – tasted 17Jan’20, having been bottled Nov’19, 14%, remains a 50/50 blend of Roero/Langhe fruit, fermented in old wood tini as before, malo in stainless, before spending 12 mths in botte grande & 12 mths in stainless-steel: pale red in colour, the Roero fruit from Castellinaldo provides a soft sandy orange swirl, while the Langhe Nebbiolo gives the rose. Lots of gentle tea-leaf, pretty red fruit, already very relaxed & easy going, easy to appreciate…languid!
2016 Nebbiolo d’Alba – tasted Nov’18, bottled June’18: a bright, tight weave of Roero & Langhe fruit, noticeably more dinamico in 2016 (vintage/cantina), fluid, notable also for the gentler ‘hand’, only seeing botti for a year…very pretty, moreish…retasted May 2019 – 50/50 Diano d’Alba (Langhe) at 300m asl and Castellinaldo (Roero). Fermentation and maceration for 12 days in huge botte, followed by 1 yr in botte grandi and 1 year in stainless steel. More serious and more concentrated versus the Langhe Nebbiolo. Lots of red fruit as well as notes of black cherry. Spicier, with a little more structure added from the time in wood. Relaxed and perfectly balanced. 14% alc.
2016 Barolo, Novello – as tasted by DBG & CR on Thursday 17th January 2020 – 14%, total Acidity 6.32g/l, pH 3.42, total sulphur 110mg/litro, c.6.5k bottled in August’19, from a long-standing rent of the single Bergera-Pezzole vineyard in the village of Novello, at c. 380metres asl. Vinified for 25 days in open-top old wooden fermenters, darker in hue than the redder Cannubi, the nose is bright, briary, compact, with an Alpine cherry herbal feel & freshness. Juicy, good energy, generous & open with red/black currants, crunchy fresh, more direct & easier to read than the riper & multi-layered Cannubi. Refreshingly open in fact, with a bright ribes finish & simple charm.
2015 Barolo, Novello – tasted Nov’18, 14,5%, bottled Aug’18, macerated for 20 days, mal in stainless-steel, 36 mths wood ageing in 49HL botte grandi…fresh (helped by the clay rich single Novello vineyard/provenance), fragrant rose, chinato, suave strawberry silkiness, great fluidita! Lovely core of bright red, gorgeously seductive fruit…charming even now. Total sulphur at bottling 90mg, 48 free…retasted May 2019 – the Novello single vineyard is 320m asl, very open towards the mountains, South facing, with whiter soil. Gorgeous strawberry fruit nose, potpourri, floral. Layers of juicy red fruit interwoven with elegant, chalky tannins.
2014 Barolo, Novello – 13.5% abv, last tasted June’18, from the high, single Bergera-Pozzole vineyard in the comune of Novello, overlooking both the river Tanaro below & the Maritime Alps in the distance, on heavier calcareous clay soils, steeply sloped staring south, harvested 15 Oct., later than Cannubi! Fresh, autumn leaf crunch, brambly fruit, forest floor, leaf litter, tamarind, glistening, gleaming, light on its feet, sapid, cool Pinot esque, already open-hearted, engaging, uncomplicated, wears its heart on its sleeve. Tea leaf, orange skin, the product of 15 days’ maceration. Such gentilezza!
2013 Barolo, Novello – from the single vineyard of Bergera in Novello, from heavier clay soils, facing west towards the Alps, there’s a distinctly cooler, deepr garnet, broader feel to this Barolo, certainly compared to Cannubi! Vinified in oak for 15 days, then 2 yrs & 10 mths in botte grande, svelte, dried mint/rose, square tannins too but fine. Bottled Sept ’16
2016 Barolo Cannubi – as tasted by DBG & CR on Thursday 17th January 2020 – 14.5%, total Acidity 6.16g/l, pH 3.50, total sulphur 103mg/litro,bottled in August’19, their 2016 Barolo Cannubi blends (as in vintage 2015) the heavy clay soil of the ‘Gorat’ plot, facing west, together with the cool ‘Nuova’ that looks east. Even to the untrained eye, one can appreciate the richer, warmer, denser red hue to the wine, compared to the Novello Barolo. There’s more lift, with notable kirsch red/black currant strength & core, with a distinctly broader, layered, lush, summer strawberry fruit, ‘griotte’ compote of ‘Gorat’, refreshed by the steely nerve of ‘Nuova’. It’s more ‘grasso’ too, more complex, smouldering, with pulpy, with lots of red berried Alpine herbs, immersed in a rich structure, with ageing in bottle a requirement!
2015 Barolo Cannubi – tasted Nov’18, bottled Aug’18, a blend of Guarat (West) & Nuovo (East) plots, so hot & cold. Bright start, engaging from the off, a distinct strawberry confiture presence, along with infused alpine herb notes; to taste, sumptuous, fleshy, soft, rosa canina…very promising…retasted May 2019 – 45 days maceration in total. Nb. no Battista in this blend as it all went into the Riserva. MLF in steel as always. 32 months in botte grandi. Bottled Summer 2018. A little more restrained on the nose versus the Barolo Novello. More subdued, complex, velvety….with notable freshness, coolness, and lift. Finely woven together, with outstanding ageing potential.
2014 Barolo Cannubi – 14%, last tasted June’18, wow! Compared to the fresh & fragile Barolo from Novello, this single vineyard Cannubi, drawn from all three of their plots (Guarat W, Battista S, & Nuova E), has the volume! Harvested 10th October, Vinified identically as the Barolo, if longer on the skins (c.20 days), proof that Cannubi offers that little bit more in more challenging vintages. Hence the warmer, bella rossa/red, groseilles, cologne fresh,ribes, the lusher, fuller body richer, riper (!), broad thyme & strawberry svelte notes. More precise, definite/concreto than the Barolo. Sweet cleansing rose. Beautiful freschezza! Needs time but seductive already! 2014 was also the year the family put a stop to all chemicals!
2013 Barolo Cannubi – a blend in 2013 of the Cane west facing plot & the east/northeast Nuova plot, vinified for 40 days in old wood, it’s compact, assured, composed, with generous, fleshy red fruit, sumptuous tannins & a raspberry like perfume that leads one to Sarmassa just down the hill! Coiled, nicely focused, hint of herb, true & warm hearted…needs time in bottle pero!
2013 Barolo Riserva Cannubi – tasted April’18 from botte, prior to summer bottling & release from Gennaio 2019. 14.5%, a blend of all three of the family’s Cannubi plots (Guarat W, Battista S, Nuova E), 30 days on the skins in old/inert wooden fermenters. followed by 50 mths in botti (old & new). Wow! tightly coiled, kirsch red cherry stone & rosehip notes. Very fine & focused. Glacier cherry on the palate, beady electric fruit, dynamite! Very exciting…retasted Nov’18, having been bottled in Aug’18: compared to 2015 Cannubi, piu ethereal, discreet, rose potpourri, fascinating!
2012 Barolo Riserva Cannubi – a first sighting of this increasingly rare wine, sampled from the single 25HL Veneta Botti botte! From their warmest parcels on top of the Cannubi hill, west-facing Cane & south-facing Battista, so no surprise that it’s hedonistic, sumptuous, loganberry rich, summer fruit & alpine herbs…
Barolo Chinato (2013) – their vintage 2013 Barolo Chinato is Albeisa bottled, thereby completing the range! Pale, bright cherry red; a fabulous nose of pepper, rhubarb, ginger biscuits, herbal, orange peel, clove & cinnamon + sunny, svelte & fresh Barolo Cannubi 2013!! Unsurprisingly then: it’s refined, refreshing, has a stravecchio Barolo Cannubi feel, very puro, silky, white pepper, love its freshness & rhubarb bevibilita!