Figli Luigi OdderoDownload
Since 1878 the Oddero family has been synonymous with tradition and high quality Nebbiolo wines from the Langhe’s top vineyards, and it was in 1951 when brothers Giacomo and Luigi Oddero began bottling their family’s wines.
In 2006, after fifty years of passionately tending the vine and making the wine (while Giacomo, a chemist, was more ‘front of house’), Luigi was obliged – unceremoniously – to leave the family domaine in La Morra and create his own label. He took with him his wife Lena, their young children Giovanni and Maria, as well as 32 hectare of prime vineyards, including Castiglione Falletto’s Rocche dei Rivera & Serralunga d’Alba’s Vigna Rionda. Luigi loved the land, his vines & was also an expert grower of peaches.
With Luigi’s loss in 2010, Lena Oddero (nata Gavrilova) is now managing the estate, aided by her faithful team of Francesco Versio, Alberto Gatto & Gregorio (winemaking), Alberto Zaccarelli (sales) & Dante Scaglione, ex Bruno Giacosa, consults. The wines are traditionally and respectfully made in stainless-steel & cement tanks, & then aged in large Gamba oak botti.Their fruit is grown in the villages of Treiso (for Barbaresco), La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba.
Dolcetto d’Alba, La Morra
Barbera d’Alba, La Morra
Langhe Freisa, La Morra
Barbaresco Rombone, Treiso
Barolo Rocche dei Rivera, Castiglione Falletto
Barolo Vignarionda, Serralunga d’Alba
Moscato d’Asti, Trezzo Tinella
2016 Langhe Bianco, La Morra – 13,5%, tasted May’18, only 1400 bts produced, the Chardonnay/Viognier blend from below the cantina itself, part fermented in tonneaux. Exotic limy zip, ananas, fine lees, distinctly white stone, white musky fragrance, very pretty, lemongrass & hay, fresher than the sultry 2015, very prim!
2018 Dolcetto d’Alba, La Morra -tasted March’19, tank sample (due to be bottled by May’19), 12.7%, TotalAcidity 5.35, pH 3.48, the fruit coming from their 18 yo vines that lie on the apron of the La Morra cantina itself among the Bettolotti vineyard, so ‘metres-zero’! 2018 was a delightful vintage for Dolcetto; the warm yet humid conditions, especially during early Sept harvest, made for bright, really characterful wines, of modest alcohol. A lively violet ruby, the nose rings of (dare-I-say-it!) ribena, quite full, floral violet ream, pepper & graphite notes to ground it; an almost august linear profile, as Luigi would have liked. Very much a La Morra Dolcetto on account of its broader, generous texture & mouthfeel, fine-tuned by the light touch of Francesco Versio & the team at Figli Luigi Oddero. No oak.
2017 Barbera d’Alba, La Morra – tasted March’19, tank sample (due to be bottled by May’19) 14.5%, also drawn from the Figli Luigi Oddero Barbera vines that lie adjacent to the Santa Maria di La Morra cantina, in what is the Bettolotti (Barolo) vineyard. So a Barbera with intent! Unlike the Dolcetto, their Barbera sees oak affinamento (elevage) after a stainless-steel & cement vinification: 9 months of large c.85HL botti. A vintage that was marked by an early spring, cold Easter snap (frost), followed by nearly four months sunny drought, the Barbera fruit soaked up the sun & even turned a bit passito on the vine. Hence a broad, full, creamy, pulpy, sumptuous brambly fruit, a hint of cinnamon & a suggestion of Aussie, Barossa Valley-like richness! How refreshingly different it is to the 2018 Dolcetto!
2016 Langhe Nebbiolo – as tasted by DBG on Wednesday 23rd January 2019, 14%. Very much a baby (FLO) Barolo, being the produce of 30% declassified Nebbiolo da Barolo, 100% estate fruit, harvested from the (Barolo) vineyards of 70% La Morra’s Bettolotti & 30% Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone (below Rocche dei Rivera). Bright, transparent, perfectly poised, racy, mountain stream purity, glacier cherry, Alpine herbs, & violet scented, yet with (2016) extra charge & crunch. To taste: compact, sciropo, lovely balance between fruit, minerality & sapidità. Again, crystal clear, glacial expression, cool crunch. 15 mths botti ageing. Sealed with DIAM5 cork.
2015 Langhe Nebbiolo – bottled July ’17, 14/15 days maceration, 15 mths botte, then cement prior to bottling, 80% La Morra (Santa Maria), 20% Castiglione Falletto (Rocche dei Rivera); pretty fragolini, gioso, CF class, lovely nose, floral open, roses; to taste, puro, grasso/fleshy, sweet red fruit, compatto, fruit stone fruit, salty lick
2016 Barbaresco Rombone, Treiso– as tasted by DBG on Wednesday 23rd January 2019, 14%, bottled July’18, compared with the Langhe Nebbiolo 2016, their Rombone Barbaresco is clearly more intense in colour, with an added depth of blueish red garnet; on the nose, it’s tighter too (surprise, surprise), ‘piu stretto’, coiled with glacier Amarena (wild) cherry & dried rose; the lifted charm derived from a superficial layer of sand & an elevation of 295m asl, while the minerality stems from Treiso’s Formazione Lequio soils (similar to San Roccco Seno d’Elvio & Serralunga d’Alba). To taste: a mass of detail, again, perfect posture, wonderful guile, racy, notable kirsch, violet (cream?) & tiny red berried fragrance, tapered…wow! 16 mths in 50HL French Gamba. 2,200 bts made.
2015 Barbaresco Rombone, Treiso – 14.35%, bottled July ’17, still compact smoky red fruit, fragola, velvety, lush…the palate’s still very young (from bottling!), present with volume, yet pinched at the moment. Needs 6 mths to unravel!
2014 Barbaresco Rombone, Treiso – 14%, bottled Oct’16, 15 days s/s, 18 mths Gamba french 65HL, such refinement, delicate, rhubarb ethereal, firm but fine tannins, watery purity, refreshing, very happy in its own skin…a long Comet’s tail finish (to quote Jonah!)!
2007 Barbaresco (Rombone), Treiso – Pretty warm red orange, bright & limpido, Warm spice, cologne, quinine, a bowlful of lovely sweet red cassis, dried rose, fruit. Mandarin peel, crunchy, tonico, gorgeous roll of rose, sweet pretty little fruit, raspberry fruit, refreshing! Such fragranza e snello (slender!)
2015 Barolo – 14.5%, a blend of fruit fruit from 30% La Morra’s Rive, 30% Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, & 40% Serraunga d’Alba’s Baudana & Broglio! Aged in new 75-85HL Gamba botti for 26 mths, that ‘frames’ the fruit. Warm sandy red, the nose has presence, & generous with strawberry kirsch, cherry stone lift, spearmint/mentholated, sumptuous white stone & sandalwood fruit. To taste, what a texture! Fresh, vital, lots of red, rolling juicy fruit & cherry stone tannins. There’s a sense that the tension & soaring expression of this 2015 Barolo is ‘made’ by the character & quality of their prime 3ha Broglio vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, high up & east facing on the whitest of talc soils!
2014 Barolo – 14.4%, bottled July ’17, an indefatigable blend of 40% La Morra (Rive & Bettolotti), 30% Castiglione Falletto (mid slope Rocche Rivera), & 30% Serralunga d’Alba (vineyards Collaretto, Broglio & Baudana/Belvedere), 15 day later harvest than 2015, aged for 27 mths in 85 HL botti, fine, emphatic, yet tonic fresh strawberry, alpine herbs (Rucola!), cologne, tea-leaves, earthy rosehip, suave, fleshy, compelling, excellent tannin structure, salty, with drive, very exciting! (Figli Luigi Oddero felt 2014 was good enough to release the Crus!)
2013 Barolo – 40% La Morra, 30% Castiglione (Rocche), 30% Serralunga (Baudana & Broglio), 15 days, 24 mths Gamba French 60HL, full, square, closed, cerise, red cherry stone, spearmint, iron core & red cassis; a block, taut, salato, sinew, needs time in bottle!
2011 Barolo Specola, La Morra – a special wine, only c. 3k bts, also made in 2009 & not again until…2016?! from the vines just in front of the cantina, captures the La Morra Barolo character perfectly, drawing you in with its earthy, red cranberry, spice, cologne fresh; while the palate’s classically La Morra: fleshy, generous, open book, recalls Cerretta in Serralunga!
2015 Barolo Rocche Rivera Castiglione Falletto– as tasted by DBG on Wednesday 23rd January 2019, 14.5%, more translucent, more transparenza than the estate’s Barolo. A striking, thrillingly perfumed soft sand, strawberry, dried rose & white stone nose; riven, indeed piu Signorina. To taste: pacy, with finer, silkier tannins, slender/esile, with a gorgeous sciropo consistency, sapid too per forza, clipped red cherry stone, Castiglione Falletto’s classy calcareous chiselled features, yet all the while pretty as hell. Aged in 85HL Gamba botti.
2014 Barolo Rocche Rivera Castiglione Falletto – 14%, from 20-25 yo vines, pH3.47, TA5.85, tasted July ’17 from tank, bella! Bright raspberry essence, suave, silky texture, lots of violet/rose fragrance in bocca, snello/slender, easy on the eye…tasted May’18 from (6 k bts) bottle; cool fresh rosewater scent, sandalwood, tea, musky even, transparent, pretty ethereal fruit, white stone, soft strawberry, cool rose, cologne, pulse, so slender…the best yet! Wow!!
2013 Barolo Rocche Rivera Castiglione Falletto – 14%, hard to read at this stage, sweet minty red currant cool, squarely structured, lots of material, fuller, more indietro/backwards, perhaps the result of spending one more year in wood vs. 2014…promising but packed, needs masses of time to unravel!
2012 Barolo Rocche Rivera Castiglione Falletto – broader, warm red fruit, velvety, generous, accessible, darker, richer, heavier bones, cleansing darker fruit, fleshier, classic 2012…needs time.
2011 Barolo Riserva Rocche dei Rivera Castiglione Falletto – across to the other side for this compact, perfumed, tonico, raspberry crunch, demanding, ethereal, water pure, 36 mths in botte; suave, morning sunny, weave, coiled…
2016 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda, Serralunga d’Alba – from 40HL botte, tasted July ’17, vinified 100% in wood, compact blueberry, fruit restraint, poise, lovely tannins, weight, finissimo, gioia! Exciting.
2014 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda, Serralunga d’Alba – tasted July’17 from tank, garrigues, strawberry, cupo, thyme, aged in 25HL botte, ferro/iron depth, immense, denso…
2013 Barolo Riserva Vignarionda Serralunga d’Alba – as tasted by DBG on Wednesday 23rd January 201, 14.5%, Here we go! Compact, focus, puro, cranberry red, talc & fragolino/wild strawberry, plus a suggestion of mandarino – so enticing, the core however remains unwavering. Pure Totalitarianism! To taste: such refinement, such detail, uncompromising, tight red berries & intense sapidità. Sale marina puro! Yet carina at the same time, couched in a mesh of red stellar joy…their finest Vignarionda yet!?
2012 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda Serralunga d’Alba – bottled June ’16, from 45 yo vines in the apex of the vineyard, pole position (next to Giovanni Rosso)! Lifted, exhilarating, low pH, high calc thrill! Such a scintillating perfume, pretty, gleaming cassis/redcurrant, sand & limestone, rich in iron, orange skin, a sweet spot, rosewater raciness & salty tears!
2011 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda Serralunga d’Alba – more translucent than the Rocche, tiny red cassis fruit, cologne fresh, suave, menthol, sinewy, weave…
2018 Moscato d’Asti, Trezzo Tinella – 5.5%, only 2,000 bottles are made from Figli Luigi Oddero vines at their Cascina Fiori in the village of Trezzo Tinella, close to Neviglie & Mango, high up behind Treiso at c. 330m asl, on white, calcium rich marne soils; vinified in autoclave to keep the delightfully bright, grapey, Moscato Bianco aromas & pretty, orange flower, sage (fiore) perfume, couched in a creamy, satiny texture, it’s a fine bead frizzante. Although at circa 100 gram RS, this is balanced by bright, total acidity at 5.85. Delicious poured over mangoes, or alongside a traditional hazelnut cake!