Figli Luigi OdderoDownload
Since 1878 the Oddero family has been synonymous with tradition and high quality Nebbiolo wines from the Langhe’s top vineyards, and it was in 1951 when brothers Giacomo and Luigi Oddero began bottling their family’s wines.
In 2006, after fifty years of passionately tending the vine and making the wine (while Giacomo, a chemist, was more ‘front of house’), Luigi was obliged – unceremoniously – to leave the family domaine in La Morra and create his own label. He took with him his wife Lena, their young children Giovanni and Maria, as well as 32 hectare of prime vineyards, including Castiglione Falletto’s Rocche dei Rivera & Serralunga d’Alba’s Vigna Rionda. Luigi loved the land, his vines & was also an expert grower of peaches.
With Luigi’s loss in 2010, Lena Oddero (nata Gavrilova) is now managing the estate, aided by her faithful team of Francesco Versio, Alberto Gatto & Gregorio (winemaking), Alberto Zaccarelli (sales) & Dante Scaglione, ex Bruno Giacosa, consults. The wines are traditionally and respectfully made in stainless-steel & cement tanks, & then aged in large Gamba oak botti.Their fruit is grown in the villages of Treiso (for Barbaresco), La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba.
Dolcetto d’Alba, La Morra
Barbera d’Alba, La Morra
Barbaresco Rombone, Treiso
Barolo Rocche dei Rivera, Castiglione Falletto
Barolo Vignarionda, Serralunga d’Alba
Moscato d’Asti, Trezzo Tinella
2018 Langhe Bianco, La Morra – 75%Chardonnay, 25% Viognier, vinified without oak, sealed with a screw cap…all lime & lemongrass, a bit reduced but crunchy & spangly!
2018 Dolcetto d’Alba, La Morra – tasted March’19, tank sample (due to be bottled by May’19), 12.7%, TotalAcidity 5.35, pH 3.48, the fruit coming from their 18 yo vines that lie on the apron of the La Morra cantina itself among the Bettolotti vineyard, so ‘metres-zero’! 2018 was a delightful vintage for Dolcetto; the warm yet humid conditions, especially during early Sept harvest, made for bright, really characterful wines, of modest alcohol. A lively violet ruby, the nose rings of (dare-I-say-it!) ribena, quite full, floral violet ream, pepper & graphite notes to ground it; an almost august linear profile, as Luigi would have liked. Very much a La Morra Dolcetto on account of its broader, generous texture & mouthfeel, fine-tuned by the light touch of Francesco Versio & the team at Figli Luigi Oddero. No oak.
2018 Barbera d’Alba – as tasted by DBG & Chloe on Thursday 16th January 2020. 14%, tasted from tank with the wine due to be bottled in Feb’20, much crunchier than the spirity 2017, the fruit also stems from the vineyards lying adjacent to the Figli Luigi Oddero cantina of Tenuta Parà, so giving real La Morra presence & volume to the wine. Darker & brighter too than the drier, hotter 2017, their vintage 2018 Barbera d’Alba reminds me slightly of a delicious piece of Black Forest Gateaux: that combination of black cherry kirsch & dark fondent chocolate! Quite a prodigious wine, very juicy but fresh too….quasi una ‘bomba’!
2016 Barolo – as tasted by DBG & Chloe on Thursday 16th January 2020. 14.5%, bottled July’19, TA5.65, pH3.48, vintage 2016 remains a blend of fruit from 30% La Morra’s Rive, 30% Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone (Rocche dei Rivera), & 40% Serralunga d’Alba’s Baudana & Broglio. In keeping with the vintage, their 2016 Barolo is very compact & reserved. The colour speaks of the vintage, with its gleaming dark cherry red; the nose sings of kirsch visciolo cherry (darker), of quinine, with menthol ripeness & perfect poise. The palate is complementary & balanced, but very closed, indietro, giving little away, bar a completeness, a violet fragrance, a coiled energy, with flesh, but also graphite, sapid notes. Vinified for 30 days on the skins (pumping over + some submerged cap) then malolactic in cement, & 26 mths affinamento in c.80 HL botte grande. A model Barolo?
2015 Barolo – 14.5%, a blend of fruit fruit from 30% La Morra’s Rive, 30% Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, & 40% Serraunga d’Alba’s Baudana & Broglio! Aged in new 75-85HL Gamba botti for 26 mths, that ‘frames’ the fruit. Warm sandy red, the nose has presence, & generous with strawberry kirsch, cherry stone lift, spearmint/mentholated, sumptuous white stone & sandalwood fruit. To taste, what a texture! Fresh, vital, lots of red, rolling juicy fruit & cherry stone tannins. There’s a sense that the tension & soaring expression of this 2015 Barolo is ‘made’ by the character & quality of their prime 3ha Broglio vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, high up & east facing on the whitest of talc soils!
2014 Barolo – 14.4%, bottled July ’17, an indefatigable blend of 40% La Morra (Rive & Bettolotti), 30% Castiglione Falletto (mid slope Rocche Rivera), & 30% Serralunga d’Alba (vineyards Collaretto, Broglio & Baudana/Belvedere), 15 day later harvest than 2015, aged for 27 mths in 85 HL botti, fine, emphatic, yet tonic fresh strawberry, alpine herbs (Rucola!), cologne, tea-leaves, earthy rosehip, suave, fleshy, compelling, excellent tannin structure, salty, with drive, very exciting! (Figli Luigi Oddero felt 2014 was good enough to release the Crus!)
2013 Barolo – 40% La Morra, 30% Castiglione (Rocche), 30% Serralunga (Baudana & Broglio), 15 days, 24 mths Gamba French 60HL, full, square, closed, cerise, red cherry stone, spearmint, iron core & red cassis; a block, taut, salato, sinew, needs time in bottle!
2018 Moscato d’Asti, Trezzo Tinella – 5.5%, only 2,000 bottles are made from Figli Luigi Oddero vines at their Cascina Fiori in the village of Trezzo Tinella, close to Neviglie & Mango, high up behind Treiso at c. 330m asl, on white, calcium rich marne soils; vinified in autoclave to keep the delightfully bright, grapey, Moscato Bianco aromas & pretty, orange flower, sage (fiore) perfume, couched in a creamy, satiny texture, it’s a fine bead frizzante. Although at circa 100 gram RS, this is balanced by bright, total acidity at 5.85. Delicious poured over mangoes, or alongside a traditional hazelnut cake!