Barbaresco – anecdotal observations after three days in the field in June 2017 visiting: Olek Bondonio, Giuseppe Cortese, Roagna, Produttori del Barbaresco, Fletcher Wines, Roccalini, Marchesi di Gresy, Albino Rocca, Poderi Colla, Paitin, Francesco Versio, Sottimano, Punset, Dante Rivetti, Manuel Marinacci & having tasted Rizzi, Bruno Rocca, Cascina delle Rose, Rivella Serafino, Ugo Lequio, Cascina Luisin, Figli Luigi Oddero. Vintages tasted: 2015, 2014, 2013 & 2007
Geography
– Further inland east of Barolo, closer to Asti than to the Alps, on the banks of the river Tanaro
– Smaller zone (c.800 ha) vs Barolo (c.2000ha), 4 mln vs 14 mln of Barolo/anno
– Comprises communes of Barbaresco, Neive, Tresio & part of Alba (San Rocco Seno d’Elivo).
– Apparently commune of Neviglie once included then opted out to focus on Moscato…
Topography
– Lower, tightly packed mesoclimate (vs Barolo), hence warmer, cluster of hills (except Treiso) lower down & closer to the Tanaro river valley
– Hills generally run North/South, so aspects are W/E, with only a few notable S facing vineyards (Roncagliette, Roccalini, Rabaja, Gallina, Martinenga, Faset, part Asili, Bricco di Neive…), hence giving extra freshness/acidity/aromas
– River Tanaro runs along commune of Barbaresco, eating away at the white calcareous clay/Marne Sant’Agata/Tortonian soils, bringing younger, more fertile soils…
Climate
– Warmer & drier than Barolo: protected from westerly storms by Barolo & river Tanaro
– Breezy conditions due to Tanaro river (bringing air currents along valley)
– Barbaresco open to Tanaro river influence; Neive further away from river,so warmer; Treiso higher & breezier. Tanaro protects & ventilates but its humidity can bring rot.
Soils
– Three subzones recognised:
1. Creamy white Tortonian (circa 7 million yo), calcareous clay/tufo commune of Barbaresco gives broad (tannic) structure, richness & depth
2. Sandy soils of Neive vyds, notably west & north of the commune gives warm soft tannins
3. (Older) limestone white & marine sand (Formation of Lequio closer to Alta Langa, as per Serralunga & Monforte) found in Treiso, but also in Bricco di Neive & San Rocco Seno d’Elvio (foot of Treiso)
Wine styles
Perfumed, pale garnet/violets, ethereal, slight, racy acidity, pithy/salty tannins – generally associated with Formation of Lequio limestone & sand, the product of poor, dry, minerally rich soils similar to Serralunga d’Alba in being high acid (altitude & alkaline soils), pale garnet (high acid), found mostly in Treiso commune but also in San Rocco Seno d’Elvio, & eastern part of Bricco di Neive, notably from vineyards of Nervo, Pajore, Rombone, Montersino (San Rocco Seno d’Elvio), Bernadot, Bricco (di Neive), Bric’ Micca. Closer in style (if more fragile) to top halves of Serralunga d’Alba & Monforte d’Alba. Medium to long ageing potential.
Full, redcurrant, rich, august tannins, darker, balsamic, brambly fruit, cleansing acidity – associated with the village of Barbaresco, thanks to the younger Tortonian white tufo soils from lower (than Treiso) slopes, enriched over the millennia by river alluvial (?), shaped/depleted by prevailing westerly winds; classic examples Paje, Asili, Pora, Rabaja, Roncaglie, Roncagliette, Ovello, Montefico, Ronchi, Montestefano. Arguably extends to the atypical vineyards of Cotta, San Cristoforo, part of Basarin & across to Serraboella in (Bricco di) Neive? Wine style closer to Barolo villages of Roddi, Verduno, & La Morra. Medium to long ageing potential.
Warm, rich, softer tannins & generous strawberry fruit, lower acid – characterised by the white/yellow/red (Asti like) sandy soils found in the village of Neive, notably to the west & north (heading towards Costigliole d’Asti), such as Gallina, Albesani, Starderi, Serracapelli, Rivetti, Bricco di Neive (northern part). Medium ageing potential.