Leaving Catania airport up towards Linguaglossa, the sea behind you, the rugged, barren, grey, rocky outcrops tell of recent lava flows visible on either side of the hastily mended road. Wild flowers, yellow with flashes of pink, mix with what resembles giant fennel.
Etna seems to buzz. Perhaps living on the edge of a volcano adds a certain heightened, vibrant energy. Even the lush green vineyards seemed more alive. The often ungrafted, ancient alberello vines looked like inverted octopuses with outstretched tentacles and suckers where previous growth has been cut. And above, glimpses of brooding Etna, streaked black and white still with snow.
Terroir is super complicated and ever changing. One Contrada – roughly speaking a ‘Cru’ – can have different soils and characteristics – it is never wise to make generalisations – although they all seem to be blessed with antimicrobial properties from the ash and few chemicals are needed in the vineyard. Here the age of the lava flow is discussed rather than the age of the soil; and the crescent like shape which makes up the Etna DOC is divided into Versanti (Sides/Aspect).
On the Versante Est is Milo, the heartland of Etna Bianco, where the wind blows in a funnel down the volcano to meet the moisture-laden ocean breeze. More rain falls on this side, yet the fast-draining lavic soil means that the wines still maintain admirable concentration and health. No dilution here where it is too cold and high for Nerello Mascalese to ripen. Milo is the only place on Etna allowed to call its wines Etna Bianco Superiore. From their vineyards overlooking the sea just outside in Sant’Alfio, Fabio and Nuna from Tenute di Nuna make a substantial Etna Bianco and a Superiore, the latter with a touch of oak and malolactic, but both with the salinity, savoury character brought by the proximity to the sea.
Over to the warmer, drier, sunnier Versante Nord, famed for its reds where between Randazzo and Passopisciaro, DBGitalia stalwarts, SRC Vini, make wild, expressive wines with minimal intervention from their contrade. Roberto Abbate has vineyards in Feudo di Mezzo, tiny quantities of both Etna Rosso, Bianco and an exquisite Rosato. Feudo di Mezzo is the largest Etna contrada and the soil here is less rocky, deeper and more earthy, suffering less in hot years from the heat radiating from the rocks.
And what of these Etna grapes? Captivating Nerello Mascalese with its unmistakable, orange-tinged wines, seductive like Pinot Noir with its sweet red fruit, sometimes more like Nebbiolo (especially on the Versante Nord), more herbal, structured or vertical but often all of the above, but mostly like itself. Showing an affinity for oak from botti to barrique ma non troppo. Then playful chameleon-like Carricante, with its many characters, from steely Chenin/Chablis minerality, through a miriad of honeyed citrus/pineapple fruits, weighty yet so often balanced, via the tanginess of Jurançon through to petrolly Riesling aromas with bottle age. These wines have energy.
We need a trip back next year in order to continue to explore the South but for now we have a taste of the South West in the historic estate Castello Solicchiata, where classically well made, fine, Bordeaux-style blends grown on terraces surrounding the castle are found. This was an absolute surprise, but again perhaps that is Etna, full of surprises.
From my impression of the wines of the Contrade, I felt that the wine making on Etna has not yet settled down entirely, both innovation and enthusiasm erupting in a slightly unconstrained wild manner. Etna’s lava flows ironically are mostly slow and controlled. For the Rosso in particular there was the question of oak. Nerello Mascalese in my mind is a seductive grape which can wear it well but should be coaxed rather than smothered. I would prefer exuberant to gaudy – this is not Nero d’Avola after all. As for the whites, maceration at the Contrade was à la mode but was at times overdone, adding unnecessary background noise and even a tannic finish.
But finally, back to the giant ‘fennel’ with its huge stalks, feathery fronds and bright yellow orbs of flowers. One producer explained that the plant was ‘finta’ (fake), called Ferula, and not to be confused with its much smaller edible cousin which also grew wild in the same spots along roads. Ferula is mildly poisonous, and fortunately has none of fennel’s unmistakeable aniseed perfume from its crushed leaves. According to Greek mythology, when Prometheus gave mortals fire, he stole it from Mount Olympus and hid it in the stalk of the Ferula plant which contains slow burning fibres and was often used to transport fire. Dionysus, the Greek God of wine, was often depicted carrying a stalk of the giant plant topped with a pinecone as a sceptre. All in all a most fitting plant to cover a volcano where the vineyards are littered with sherds of ancient Greek pottery.
While not as famous as the other ‘Bs’ (Barbaresco & Barolo) to the west, the relatively new DOC, Buttafuoco, is clearly a player in the Full Bodied Italian Rosso squad – probably in defence – & justifies its selection on several counts: geographically, geologically, historically, & ampelographically (grapes!). The name ‘Buttafuoco’ seems to have two origins: from the blazing paean of colours displayed by the grapes Croatina, Barbera, Ughetta di Canneto & Uva Rara at harvest time (a sight enjoyed also in the vineyards of the Alto Piemonte); & secondly from the dialect “butafeug”, literally ‘burning mouth’, as exclaimed by the Milanese poet Carlo Porta (18th century) on drinking the strong, sapido, flavoursome wines!
The hilly Buttafuoco region is located in Lombardia’s provincia di Pavia, 90 mins drive east of the Langhe & Roero, on the notable 45th parallel & forms the most northern part, a spur-shaped area (‘lo sperone di Stradella’) closest to the river Pò, of the larger Oltrepò Pavese – 15km due south of Pavia (Ticinum), & 52km south of Milano, with the towns of Broni & Stradella at its head; it’s a tapered slice of Lombardo land that’s sandwiched between Piemonte (to the west), Liguria (to the South), & Emilia-Romagna (to the east), which makes for a heady mix of rich cultures (& delicious salami!). The river Pò runs west to east, below the Buttafuoco hills – similar in a way to the Tanaro river as it ebbs its way past Barbaresco & Barolo. The zone is additionally influenced & delimited by the important presence of two smaller rivers, once glaciers, Scuropasso & Versa, that run from the Apennines above to the Pò below. There are seven comunes within the Buttafuoco DOC: Broni, Stradella, Canneto Pavese, Montescano, Castana, Cigognola & Pietra de’ Giorgi. And all except Broni (famous for its Barbacarlo DOC) & Stradella make up the core Buttafuoco ‘storico’/historical. Elevations at circa 250 – 300m asl.
A glance at any geological map of Italia will show that the Buttafuoco dell’Oltrepò Pavese region is a continuation of the Tortonian Marne Sant’Agata Fossile that forms the bedrock of Piemonte’s Langhe & Roero regions, dating back to the Miocene period circa 15 million years ago; the sedimentary remains of when the wide Padana valley was occupied by the greater Mediterranean Sea, before the Gibraltar’s gap was prized open, emptying the Sea into the Atlantic ocean, & leaving behind shelves/banks of seabed through which subsequent glacial movements created the spectacular Oltrepò Pavese valleys & hills. In particular the historical zone of Buttafuoco is located on three bands of soil: ghiaie (conglomerated sands & gravels), arenaria (sandstone), & argilla (clay), that impart their own character to the wines thereof: supple/juicy (ghiaie), austere/sapidità (arenaria), & compact/dark flesh (argilla). The region is climatically influenced by the nearby Apennines up to 2000m asl, creating downdrafts, by the close proximity of the Mediterranean sea, & of course by the river Pò just the north, bringing cool air currents from Piemonte & the west. The climate is similar to that of Piemonte, being (semi) continental, with cold winters, hot summers & long autumns.
Historically, & according to the esteemed writer/sommelier/educator Roberto Vinci (robertovinci.org), the ‘Oltre del Pò’/Oltrepò Pavese region, including Buttafuoco, has been well-documented over the centuries by the likes of Strabone, Maragliano, Robolini, cav.Giuletti, Prof. Marescalchi et al…plus more recently, the wines were highlighted by Burton Anderson & praised by Luigi Veronelli. Indeed, for centuries the hills & villages of the Buttafuoco zone, perched above the river Pò, would have been familiar to anyone being transported along the river Pò, or by foot sulla Via del Sale (the salt route) making their way between Milano & Genova. During the second war of Italian independance (1859), the defending Austrian army apparently sought refuge among the Buttafuoco hills, drank too much of their rich red wine & then named a naval ship after it – hence the motif on the bottle. The 100ha Buttafuoco DOC region contained within the Oltrepò Pavese (itself famous for base wine for making Spumante) was only recognized as such in 1970. Meanwhile the bijoux 20ha (100k bts/anno) zone of Buttafuoco ‘Storico’ dates back to 7th February 1996 when a group of 16 producers came together to shine a light on the core zone for making full bodied dry reds from local varieties; the Buttafuoco DOC was eventually codified into law in 2010. Enshrined in the Buttafuoco ‘Storico statute is the ability to feature the vineyard name (vigna X) on the label, of which 17 across the five communes have been identified & delimited.
Until Italian reunification in 1861, the region was always referred to as l’Antico Piemonte on account of it being part of the Savoia kingdom. Little surprise then that the grapes planted among the hills of Buttafuoco are also widely dispersed in Piemonte, notably Croatina, Barbera, Ughetta di Canneto (Vespolina) & Uva Rara. And perhaps unlike other viticultural regions, the grapes form part of a field blend in the same vineyard, harvested at the same time & co-fermented; the timing of harvest being crucial (as with Nebbiolo!) The proportions of the grapes in the vineyard vary between cantine, but are roughly: 50% Croatina, 25% Barbera, 15% Ughetta di Canneto (Vespolina) & 10% Uva Rara; all four are required to qualify for Buttafuoco ‘Storico’ status, & the privilege of using the embellished ‘Storico’ bottle (photo). A minimum 36 mths ageing is required prior to release, of which 12 mths affinamento in legno; traditionally using the 900Litre ‘ciüf’, whose oval shape is reproduced on the bottle, surrounding the ship!
So the small, delimited Buttafuoco zone offers rich dry reds of a seriously superior quality & defined character thanks to a unique, & very Italian blend of ancient geological, historical, geographically, & culturally diverse, ampelographical roots. Indeed, roots & traditions that owe much to l’Antico Piemonte!
Emerging from ‘chiusura‘ here in Italia, I reflect on that February visit to Lombardia’s stunning Valtellina region, north-east of Milano. Outside of the Langhe & Roero, I think it would be fair to say that Valtellina joins Alto Piemonte as a source of fine Nebbiolo-based wines, or should I say Chiavennasca…
And just as with Alto Piemonte, & indeed Etna, so the risorgimento of Valtellina also seems to date back to the early 2000s, when a new generation of vignaioli (vignerons) appeared, prompted by a drop in the market (price) & hence the possibility to rent decent vineyards & buy fruit affordably. This situation was triggered by the then largest bottler, Nino Negri, apparently changing their grape supply policy; while in 2010 the cantina sociale, ‘Enologica Valtellina’, went bust. These events encouraged small producers such as Dirupi, Mozzi, Barbacàn, Boffalora, Mattia Franzina & others to enter the market & begin making artisan wines from terraces of old masale selection vines, embroidered by wild fichi d’india – all uncanny similarities to Etna. And as with Etna & Alto Piemonte, so Valtellina was once ‘carpeted’ with 6,000 hectares of vines during the 19th century, before rapidly contracting post WWII to today’s coverage of circa 850ha, so the equivalent of Barbaresco.
The valley of Valtellina runs in a west-east line that begins almost on the banks of the Lago di Como – itself an influence. The valley topography recalls more the Côte d’Or than for example the cross-like shape of Alto Piemonte, or the volcanic apron effect around Etna, or indeed compared to the twisting, curving complexity of the Langhe & Roero. This regional symmetry makes it simpler to understand & to navigate. For just as the RN74 runs along Burgundy’s 50km ‘Golden Slope’, with only the village order to remember, so in Valtellina it’s the SS38 – running alongside the river Adda – that delivers you from one end of the valley to the other, from the villages of Ardenno in the west to Tirano further east, a distance of 45km.
Given the steep gradient, most of the key vineyards are terraced & largely face South West, South or South East, ensuring a certain consistency of ripeness. The river Adda tempers the valley mesoclimate, especially during winter as the Valtellina region lies on the 46 latitude. In summer, the terraces are air-conditioned, west to east, by breezes originating from the Lago di Como; the river Adda carrying lively air currents back & forth. The vines are also protected by the presence of two mountain ranges: in front facing the vines, the Alpi Orbie protects from any torrid southerlies or indeed from burning sun (so the slopes warm up gradually!); while lying on Valtellina’s back are the Alpi Retiche, keeping the cold from the North at bay.
These mountain ranges also affect rainfall, reducing it to an average of 900mm/during the growing season compared to more than 2000mm outside the valley. Aspect & altitude of the vineyards seem more important than the actual composition of the soils, which are quite similar the length of the valley: a mix of schist, granite/sand, mica, gneiss, & morainic. And as per the likes of the Carema region, so in the past alluvial soil from the Adda was carried up to infill the terraces. Assessing site, there appear to be three bands of terraced vineyards: up to 250m asl, between 250 -450m, & above 450metres. The pancia (250-450m) lies in the heart of the slope & is the place to be. Consequently there’s good diurnal shift in temperature, preserving acidities & perfumes.
Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca) is key, but other local varieties such as Rossola, Pignola & Merlina also add nuance & can make up 10% of the final wine (along with any non-indigenous varieties). The four levels of Valtellina wines are: DOC Rosso di Valtellina, DOCG Valtellina Superiore (215ha), Valtellina Superiore ‘Sottozona/MGA/Cru’ (25ha Maroggia, 114ha Sassella, 78ha Grumello, 55ha Inferno, & 137ha Valgella), Valtellina Superiore Riserva, plus ‘Sforzato di Valtellina’, a passito version popular with the locals. Permited yields are similar to the Langhe: Rosso at 65hl/ha (100 quintals), & Valtellina Superiore at 52hl/ha (80 q.); but in hectolitres of wine, Valtellina Superiore can yield more per hectare (60hl) than Barolo at 56hl. Ageing of Valtellina Superiore & VS Sottozone/Cru is 24mths, of which 12 mths must be in wood barrels; for Riserva, 36 mths. Valtellina Superiore was awarded DOC in 1968, & DOCG in 1998.
As for the wines, & agreeing with the conclusions of Alessandro Masnaghetti Editore/ENOGEA (2015 2nd edition), the general characteristics of the key Sottozone/MGA/Crus appear to be: gentle contoured Maroggia (2 producers in 2015) at the western, open end of the valley, offers suave delicacy; steep Sassella (21 producers) at the heart of the Valtellina Superiore zone is more vertical & taut (even if aspect swings from SE to SW); pure south, deep soils of Grumello (13 producers) give more volume & flesh; alongside, rich in clay, Inferno (14 producers) offers power & structure; while at the eastern end, the Valgella (15 producers) zone is well extended, but generally is high & cool, giving nervy wines.
Comparing Valtellina wines to those of Alto Piemonte & Basso Piemonte (Roero & Langhe), one might assume that the wines of Alto Piemonte & Valtellina would be similar, given their pre-Alp locations & (essentially) acidic soils, & yet they’re very different. Looking at approximate analysis of alcohol, total acidity, & pH. Valtellina alcohols are c.14%, total acidity at a softer 4.50/5g/litro, & their pH at a malleable c.3.60/70.
Meanwhile, a bit further south on the 45th parallel, Alto Piemonte is more exposed & cooler, its gentler slopes (not terraces) often surrounded by woods, lower in altitude, its vyd. aspects more varied, & it endures a higher average rainfall (c.1000mm). Therefore Alto Piemonte wines tend to be fresh (acidity 5.50/6.00), with modest alcohol (13.5/14%), a sinewy body (pH3.64), & a crunchier structure than those of Valtellina. The use of other grapes in Alto Piemonte wines, such as the lighter Vespolina, only re-inforce their pretty, perfumed character.
In contrast, on the 44th parallel, among the sandy hills of the Roero alcohols generally arrive at (14.5/15%), bright acidities of 5/5.30, & minerally pHs of c.3.60; the (fruit) tannins tend to be gentler too, due to younger soils. Meanwhile the Barolos of the Langhe have significant alcohol (c.14.5+%) from a warmer drier climate further south, but balanced by a sapid calcareous minerality of pH3.50, good acidity (5.50) & a prominent tannic structure due to the cool, damp marne bedrock; Langhe wines benefit from more time in bottle.
The Superiore wines of Valtellina would therefore seem to display the presence/volume of the Langhe without the richness (alc%), nor (tannic) structure or (sedimentary) sapidity. This may be due to terroir, & to the above analysis, or because ageing is for a shorter period in less oak (2 yrs vs 3yrs for Barolo); a factor maybe also the 10% presence of other varieties permitted in the final wine. This translates into a medium/full bodied, distinctly fleshy but fresh Nebbiolo wine that’s more approachable younger.
2017 Langhe vintage: after a relatively mild winter, I recall a warm sunny March, & atypical 23 degree days accelerating the vegetative growth, followed by spring rain, & then on April 14th frost that damaged Barolo’s lower vyds & localised hail in Barbaresco (San Cristoforo). But it was the constant 30 degree days & drought caused by the N. African anticyclone ‘Caronte’ from mid-May until 1st Sept without a break that left its mark. Producers are tending to leave on more leaves to protect from the sun, plus some use Caolina, a natural sun-block made from crushed rock, & nets too alas (vs hail, sun & weather extremes!). Important rain showers in the Barolo zone on 29th July & 1st Sept refreshed the canopy & vines (& folk!), helping to revive & kickstart the Nebbiolo vines. 1st Sept also brought significantly cooler nights, almost October-esque; it was like waking up to crisp, dewy mornings. Generally, the villages of Verduno, La Morra & Barolo (lower, warmer, more precocious) started to pick Nebbiolo the week of 18th Sept, three weeks earlier than normal, while the higher, cooler, poorer, more backward calc soils of Castiglione Falletto, Monforte & Serralunga d’Alba (& even cool Novello?) could afford to hang on until week of 25th Sept & beyond. One positive created by the hot dry conditions: little disease pressure & weak vegetative growth meant cleaner fruit, due to fewer (chemical) treatments & less mechanical work in the vyd! Warmer, drier Barbaresco appears to have suffered more, hit by a triple whammy of hail, frost & drought so skins are thick & yields are down. But the vintage is no 2003, being fresher, especially the nights, with intermittent rain, & hence no real sign of desiccated fruit or wilting vines. It is of course thanks to the Langhe & (to a lesser extent) Roero’s water-retentive marne soils the vines are able to see out dry hot summers such as 2017. Due to the siccità, it would appear that ‘salificazione’ took place; under stress the vine drew up only essential minerals with which to survive, so increasing the ‘sapidità’, & lowering the pH. Barolo Cannubi vyd started being picked on 18th Sept, three/four wks ahead of norm! Barbaresco perhaps suffered most, missing out on key rain showers during the middle of the year. It was year that called for an early harvest to ensure good acidities, shorter pumping-over macerations to extract less rather than more, & judicious use of oak to avoid compromising the delicate fruit profile. Similar perhaps to a 2005 or 2001?
(foto: racking 2017 Nebbiolo da Barolo, Cantina Bartolo Mascarello on 23 Sept. 2017!)
Twenty years on from those initial tremors, when a group of trail-blazing producers – Messrs. Cornelissen, Franchetti, Graci, de Grazia, Foti/Benanti – recolonised the abandoned lava terraces & started making a (new) case for vini dell’Etna, it was time to return with my colleague Chloe, plus four DBGitalia amici produttori (Manuel Marinacci, Martina Fiorino of Bruna Grimaldi, Marco Sara & Enrico Esu) to find out how they were getting on!
In the late 19th century, the Etna region boasted c.50k hectares of vines (to make vino del taglio/wine for bulk export..). Today the region extends across 1,100 hectares (Etna Bianco, Rosato & Rosso), mentions 133 Contrade (MGAs) & is produced by 120 estates; so quality over quantity. Over the course of three days we visited two key zones, starting on Day 1 with the Versante Est, followed by Day 2 & 3 on the Versante Nord. Had we had an extra day, we should have visited the (hotter) Versante Sud, around Biancavilla. We visited twelve producers: Versante Est – Santa Maria della Nave, Biondi, I Vigneri di Salvo Foti; Versante Nord – Graci, Buscemi, Girolamo Russo, SRC Vini, Frank Cornelissen, Pietradolce, I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna, Tenuta di Terre Nere, Planeta Etna.
Versante Est, where the distance between monte & mare is shortest & steepest, the terraces at their highest, is clearly a zone vocato for the growing of white grapes, & in particular Carricante (& Minella) in the Etna Bianco Superiore zone of Caselle, where pH levels are circa 2.90! It’s also the zone where the lava soils, rich in self-cleansing Zeolite & lapillo/ash, are oldest (i.e. less vigorous) & the rainfall is highest (c. 2000 mm/anno), especially during the harvest period; so perfect for the harvesting of minerally whites! The vineyards of the Versante Est are centred on & around the villages of Trecastagni, Milo, Zafferana & Viagrande. The quality of the Maconnais/Chablis-esque, lemon-pith & racy whites were clearly demonstrated in the wines of Biondi’s ‘Pianta’ & I Vigneri di Salvo Foti‘s ‘VignadiMilo’. The reds from the Versante Est tend to be on the lighter, more restrained side – which to many (incl. me!) is a plus! Standout reds were: Biondi’s ‘Cisterna Fuori’ & ‘San Nicolo’, & I Vigneri’s ‘Vinupetra’; Salvo Foti very kindly pulled a bottle of the 2006 ‘Vinupetra’ that was gorgeous, still primary, plump & pure. The wines of Santa Maria della Nave are newcomers, being currently made at Benanti (by Salvo Foti?), & show potential.
Versante Nord, notably from Linguaglossa to Randazzo, & in particular around the ‘zona rossa’ villages of Rovitello, Solicchiata, Passopisciaro, Montelaguardia, is famous for Nerello & is home to the majority of producers. Here the lava soils are younger, from more recent flows (most recently in 1981?) the soil more vigorous (see phenolic ripening issues). Producers here refer to a phenomenon – ‘un aria speciale‘ – whereby the prevailing humid weather arriving from the south-east stops/rains on the Versante Est, & at Linguaglossa, after which the warm air current continue their journey down onto the NW facing communes thereby creating a very benign weather system during the key Sept/Oct period. Weather-wise, the growing season on the Versante Nord is longer, allowing a gradual (phenolic) maturation, bathed in light. That said, the seed tannins of Nerello, when compared to cugino Nebbiolo, are clearly difficult to ripen, especially in time before the autumn rains arrive. High density old alberello plantings appear to help in this regard, although most producers have mechanised spalliera/VSP rows too.
Of the Versante Nord producers we visited, all of whom were most generous in their disponabilità, here a few of my impressions (in order of visit):
Graci – Alberto Aiello continues his upward trajectory from circa 25ha of vines in & around the villages of Passopisciaro & Solicchiata. Alberto’s invested in the Feudo di Mezzo/Porcaria, Barbabecchi & Arcuria vineyards, & is now building a bottle store. Traditional vinification in wood tini, cement & stainless steel, Alberto’s wines show a sense of place & also great elegance, not unlike those of the Langhe. Standout were: 2017 Etna Rosso (very fine & pure) & 2015 Arcuria ‘Sopra Il Pozzo’.
Buscemi – Alberto’s wife, Mirella Buscemi is making wine (at the Graci winery) from an ancient vyd, part of the Tartaraci Contrada, in the village of Bronte, once the property of Admiral Nelson no-less. Being so old, & high at 980m asl, (hence lying outside the Etna DOC) the vineyard is ‘co-planted’ with white, red, French, Spanish & Sicilian varieties, making for a fascinating field-blend; the white is mostly made of lime-skin Grecanico, while the red is Nerello plus Granaccia/Grenache. Highlight was the 2017 Tartaraci rosso, of which she made only 4,070 bts, with cement tanks a key factor in this 45 degree hot vintage!
Girolamo Russo – just down the road, past The Blue Moon bar (!), Giuseppe Russo is making classic Etna wines from c. 20ha, using sub-terrain cement tanks (!) & rather too many old barriques for my liking. His Feudo & San Lorenzo appear to be their strongest wines. Giuseppe, a classical pianist by nature, is currently restoring the beautiful premises at their Feudo vineyard.
SRC Vini – new on the scene since 2013, Rosario Parasiliti, his wife Cinzia & daughter Sandra (SRC) were hands-on garage winemakers until 2016 when Rori built themselves an ‘all-singing’ winery in the heart of their Castiglione di Sicilia vineyards. Complete with local winemaker Fabio & assistant Rossella, this happy team are producing pure Etna wines from the much-fancied Calderara, Pirao, Rivaggi & Barbabecchi contrade; lots of cement vats here, & oak only for the ‘Rivaggi’. The vintage 2018s tasted were juicy & delicious, despite the pressures of the wet 2018 August. The whites & Rosato frizzante also shone.
Frank Cornelissen – has definitely moved on from those full-on Magma days! He’s grown in size, both hectares & winery, & I sense that his 2018s are more ‘trad’, more linear, & less-provocative than when he was a garagiste! But apparently the prices have remained the same! A most generous host, he’s quite a draw & apparently welcomes 2000 visits a year, mostly from Korea?!
Pietradolce – owned by the local Farro family, famed for their nursery business, the c.22ha property was bought in 2005 & lies in Contrade Rampante. In 2019 they completed their state-of-the-art winery, that backs onto Monte Dolce (& nextdoor to the Giovanni Rosso vineyard). Carlo Ferrini makes the wine, & it shows. For me their best wine was the 2018 Bianco Archineri from Milo, versante Est fruit!
I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna – an engineer, disciple of Salvo Foti, & one-time business partner of Simply Red’s Mick Hucknall, whose vines formed the foundation of Mario’s ‘I Custodi’ estate, the Roman Mario Paoluzi is a charming, irrepressible host & producer, selling a lot of wine in the USA! The recipe is kept simple: fine vineyards in Mascali (Bianco), Calderara & Muganazzi tended by the I Vigneri team, vinified gently in stainless steel (by Salvo Foti) & aged in fresh barrique/tonneaux were necessary. As with I Vigneri, Cornelissen, SRC, total sulphur tends to be at c. 30mg level for the reds. Volatile acidity levels are apparently integral, giving the reds lift (!) Indeed, the standouts were the 2017 Bianco & 2018 Rosato!
Tenuta delle Terre Nere – one of the pioneers, the Italo-Americano Marc de Grazia now devotes (most of) his time to this famous estate, having left his distribution company in the hands of his brother. The estate apparently measures 50ha, producing 15 labels & 500,000 bottles! The impressive Catanese winemaker Calogero Statella has his hands full, as space is clearly short. They rely on (vertical) rotofermentors to push things through. De Grazia obviously has a penchant for Burgundy, as the packaging & indeed wines seem to resemble those of the Cote d’Or: very slick, well-made, a bit samey & not particularly expressive of place. Calogero is also making his own, crunchier wine, ‘Statella’, from contrade Rampante vines.
Planeta Etna – we finished on a high, kindly hosted by Alessio Planeta at their new Sciara Nuova property perched above Passopisciaro. Alessio clearly respects the previous day’s decision by the Etna Consorzio to keep the upper level of the DOC at 800m asl (?), as opposed to extending up to 1000m asl (where they & the likes of Graci, SRC, Cornelissen) have vines; he said, if that’s what the majority wish then so be it! Finely tuned wines by the talented Patricia Tóth, perhaps the 2018 Etna Bianco was slightly compromised by tonneaux, invece the Etna Rosso was divine with raspberry highlights & fluidity (& btw, they make a delicious Nocera from Capo Milazzo, & Nero d’Avola from Pacchino!)
Insomma – Le Contrade are much hyped, but without the substance behind them, yet. It would seem that the Contrade names at this stage are more pertinent from a marketing perspective, to create more market opportunities (e.g. Terre Nere) than to aid consumers differentiate fundamental geological differences (but maybe one will naturally lead to another). There’s clearly a difference between the effect of old & young lava soils, between Versante Est & Nord (& Sud), & from a mesoclimate perspective between the various Versante Nord villages. But otherwise, at present the region is in the hands of some very competent, big personalities, now with twenty years of experience, who are making some very good wines; if slightly split at this stage between those who are more or less natural in their approach! But as per the Langhe in the 1990s, at this stage it’s the brand that’s being touted, rather than objective differences in terroir.
In the Roero & Langhe in particular, the winter season was cold but not particularly snowy; in March, while Burgundy was burnt by frost, the Roero & Langhe enjoyed cold temperatures & dry days; April remained chilly & dry (compared to the warmer & damper April 2015); this continued into May, with temperatures mirroring the 2004-2016 average if just below; June was below the average, plotting a gradual curve (versus the heat spikes of June 2015); while July 2015 was dry & hot, July 2016 followed the average 2004-2016 graph, although the Barolo region was hit by hail, notably Santa Maria di La Morra, parts of Cannubi & Rocche dell’Annunziata on 26th & 27th July, bringing with it much needed rainfall too; August was cool & subdued, as it was in 2015, with rain at the end of the month; September 2016 was welcomed for its warmth, dryness & cool nights (2015 had been also but damper); while a normal mid-late October harvest was wrapped up with cold nights & dry, warm days.
Francesco Versio in Barbaresco’s Neive village noted the thicker skins compared to 2015. Stefano Conterno of Diego Conterno points to the balanced season with regular rains, no heat spikes, to the final twenty days pre mid-Oct harvest that were cold at night (5/6 degrees by night & 25 degrees by day) capturing the aromatics & acidities; Emanuela at F.lli Serio e Battista Borgogno in Cannubi recalled the cool August (& the attentions of hail) that gave thicker skins, while Alberto Alessandria recalls that come August there was concern if the (Nebbiolo) fruit would arrive to full maturity – as it happened his harvest on 20th October was one of his latest! Barbaresco’s Manuel Marinacci said it was a “strepitoso” (resounding) vintage marked by a long cool humid spring until 20th June, then a dry Summer with no rain (or hail as in Barolo), & perfect harvest conditions into mid-October, with quantity; Gian-Battista Alessandria, il capo of F.lli Alessandria & owner of some of the best-located parcels of Monvigliero, reeled off acidities of 7.50TA alongside 15% alcohols thanks to loose bunches of small berries & thick skins (as the plant was in good health); others point to a harvest that happened a week later than in 2015 (during the cooler mid-October period).
Maria-Teresa Mascarello noted that 2016 recalled a vintage of yesteryear: cold spring until end June, July warm but not hot like in 2015, then the marked drop in temperature on Ferragosto (15th Aug), which then rose up at the end of the month, while Sept/Oct were warm by day & distinctly chilly by night (helping the lignification/ripening of the seeds) with harvesting amid beautiful autumnal weather – storms had hit in July but without inflicting any significant damage (apart from parts of Santa Maria & lower Rocche dell’Annunziata), but serving to refresh the vines, given the fruit a shower & drop the temperature, with notable diurnal shift paved the way to a mid-Oct. classic harvest. So, a classic harvest of relatively disease-free fruit, high quality & good quantity, with the vine functioning well throughout the season to give high values in all departments (abv, acidity, tannins), thick skins, allowing for long macerations (if sought).
From North to South, here are some brief reports from our amici produttori (& Me!):
Thomas Niedermayr, Alto Adige
From the stunning, light-filled Dolomitic terraces overlooking San Michele Appiano, Thomas reflects on a smaller than usual crop, the harvest of which started on 20 Aug with the PIWI grape Solaris & finished on 1st October with Souvignier Gris for making their macerated (arancione) wine ‘Abendrot’. He recalls a fresh spring with a notably wet May that meant that the vegetative growth was slow & gradual – a trait across much of Italia it seems. June was hot, so giving rise to humidity in July. Indeed oidium became a threat over the summer, forcing the family to actually treat their vines (with Brdx solution) up to three times! The other pest was the vespa/wasp, that attacked their delicious fruit as they got close to harvest! Sugars were on the low side, while acidity he says was good. He reckons the vintage favoured the Solaris & Cabernet Cantor & Cortis PIWI varieties.
Marco Sara, Colli Orientali del Friuli
From the ponca soils of the pre-Alpi Giulia hills north of Udine, Marco harvested Friulano from mid-Sept & Schioppettino from 1st October. He points to slightly lower yields due to the fresh & wet spring, & then to the particularly dry July, which affected Schioppettino in particular (as Friulano is more resistant); this had the effect of delaying the harvest slightly, which was good for promoting bright aromatics as they vinified during the cooler evenings. He credits the presence of the ponca marne soils & to the Orientali hills for the constant stress-alleviating presence of rain & refreshing winds. So compared to the more homogenous 2018, vintage 2019 was more challenging.
DBG (!), Piedmont
As I write, it’s c. 24 degrees & blue skies on 25 Oct, after a couple of days of soaking rain…perfect then for late harvesting of Nebbiolo! It would seem that the defining moments of the year were a) the cold & wet May/June that caused the flowering to be interrupted & hence growth delayed, whilst providing ample water for the season ahead, b) the July heat spike that seemed less problematic/high than other parts of Europe (Iberia & France in particular), with growers now leaving more vegetation or employing nets to protect their fruit, but which compounded the vegetative delay, remaining at 1wk/10 days behind the new norm c) the rain showers (alas with localised hail on 5th Sept) that ensured that the vine was never stressed & d) the perfect Sept/Oct season, with warm days & fresh/cold nights, notably so from week commencing 7th Oct. The benign forecast encouraged growers to wait, as there is no (reported) presence of peronospera nor of susukii flies (as there were in 2018) & skins are thicker; indeed the start of the Nebbiolo harvest in the Roero on 9th Oct was celebrated with fog! Memories of the season include the comment that growers, thanks to the cool spring, had plenty of time to get behind the vegetative growth; that the sugar levels were modest/less so than 2018; that harvest dates were generally a week/10 days later than in 2018 (Monforte, CF, & Serralunga wc 14 Oct); that skins thickened/ripened crucially during the notably crisp Oct nights; that there was more skin to pulp than in 2018; & it seems most pertinently that phenolic, acidic, & sugar ripening (lines) all came together at the same time! Hail hit on 5th Sept in Fontanazza, Boiolo, Rocchettevini, Rocche dell’Annunziata (top half), then lower Castiglione Falletto (Parussi & Montanello?), Fontanafredda, Gallaretto, Raviole, Castello & the lower slopes of Diano, Madonna di Como & brushed San Rocco Sen’d’Elvio. It seems that while 2018 was a year of (some) peronospera (with producers using lots of copper), 2019 was the year of (some) oidium, causing ‘chickens & hens’ (millerandage)…But talking to agronomist Edmondo Bonelli, he says that 2019 saw more water during the vegetative period (March to Sept) than in 2018, & that while top vineyards should have fared well, lesser sites much less so – so perhaps there’ll be more of a spread in qualita?
Cascina Feipu dei Massaretti, Liguria
On the Mediterranean coast, at Albenga in Liguria, Mirco Mastroianni reports that the Pigato yield was down c. 40% compared to 2018, due he thinks to nature’s way of balancing one abundant year (2018) with a meagre one. The Pigato harvest took place from 9th September, & he senses that the very clean fruit this year – assisted by the dry heat of the summer & the onshore breezes – will give perfume as well as structure. Indeed he recalls an August in which they in Albenga enjoyed a cool temperature difference between night & day, so promoting good aromatics. Compared to vintage 2018, he says that there’s more sugar in 2019 (13.5% for the Pigato), while acidities are slightly lower.
Monte dei Ragni, Veneto
‘Il Mago’ Zeno Zignoli, at his wife Antonella’s family estate in Fumane seems calm as ever despite having withstood 5 hailstorms this year! But then Zeno continues to believe in the ancient, pergola high method of trellising, so protecting the hanging fruit below from hail & sun; the resulting acidities are good too, the yield also (pre-appassimento!) He also mentions two rainstorms in July & August that provided the water required to prevent the plant from going into stress. He would have preferred that it hadn’t rained at harvest, as the thin skinned Corvina began to suffer, forcing them to up the pace & harvest all by 16th October. He notes that there was more sugar than in 2018.
Tenuta del Priore, Abruzzo
Owner & winemaker Fabrizio Mazzocchetti is molto contento (!), the fruit healthy despite yields at his Collecorvino estate being down 30% on 2018. This was caused by the cold May that interrupted fioratura/fleuraison, & also had a knock-on effect of delaying the eventual harvest; he talks of a ten day delay compared to 2018. Yet the cool spring also promoted looser, spargoli bunches (through coulure?) that are then better able to ripen more uniformly & cleanly. Indeed he talks of thicker skins in 2019, to the point that the Passerina & Trebbiano grapes became slightly coloured with full maturation, so imparting a pale hue to the must/wine! Summer was suitably warm, with intermittent rain showers to keep the vines from hydric stress. Invaiatura/veraison was perfect for his main grape Montepulciano, that was then harvested from 1st October onwards. The whites were harvested by 27th Sept (with Pecorino the first on 5th Sept). He stresses that the Montepulciano had perfectly lignified pips & ripe skins, so ottimo phenolics! The harvest was late by about ten days, with sugars a degree up on 2018; acidity is slightly lower than in 2018, but better than 2017. Among the Bianchi, he suggests that Passerina fared particularly well, while his ‘Kerrias’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is being macerated for 25 days before being transferred to new ceramic tanks for ageing!
Podere Il Macchione, Toscana
Simone Abram, owner & winemaker at Il Macchione was racing around making the brothers’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine from their Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese) fruit grown in the heart of the Vino Nobile zone at Caggiole, on sedimentary, fossil-rich clay soils. He remarks on the October harvest being late in 2019, by approximately two weeks, due to the cold & wet spring. This effect was also compounded by the hot July, bringing plants temporarily to a stand-still, slowing the accumulation of sugars & the overall maturation. The warmth continued into September & even to October, promoting further ripening.
Enrico Esu, Sardegna
Another happy man is Enrico Esu, a Sardo produttore from Carbonia in the island’s sandy south-west corner. He’s the proud owner & winemaker of a tiny estate that includes ungrafted ‘Piede Franco’ Carignano, del Sulcis! Despite yields being down 35% in 2019, due to the cool windy May (during flowering), the rest of the season he says was ‘perfetto!’ The foundations were laid by the particularly cool & wet preceding winter. And the hot summer helped him combat any attentions of resident insects, as the heat effectively dried up any eggs! The 2019 harvest was later than in 2018, with the younger vine Carignano fruit harvested from the middle of Sept & the alberello ungrafted in early October; sugars & acidities he says are similar to 2018. But thanks to the later harvest date, the evenings were much cooler, allowing the fruit delicate aromatics to be preserved, naturally. Macerations (in plastic fermenting tubs) are circa 10 days for the (unoaked) ‘Nerominiera’ & 15 days for the (oaked) old vine ‘Seruci’, so named after the coal mine where his father worked his last shift.
Carbone, Basilicata
I caught Luca Carbone, brother of Sara, ‘on the hop’ but very felice as he completed the last of the family’s Aglianico (del Vulture) harvest this very week/into next! He wasn’t quite so felice earlier in the year, when he was worried about the cold May. Primavera he said was unseasonally short, if present at all, with June notable for the rain. Summer though was wonderfully hot, but with accompanying cool nights thanks to the presence of the Vulture volcano looming above their Melfi vines. Sugars & acidities are both good, he says. They have recently bottled the 2015 vintage Aglianico del Vulture ‘400 Some’ & also the 2015 ‘Piani dell’Incoronata’ single vineyard Aglianco del Vulture ‘Stupor Mundi’ too.
SRC Vini, Sicilia
Last, but by no means least, comes the family estate of SRC (Sandra, Rosario & Cinzia), who are located on Mount Etna’s stupendous lava slopes in the commune of Castiglione di Sicilia. Rori (Rosario) reports a classic vendemia, with the harvest taking place around the 25th Sept; & with normal yields too thanks to a balanced season. Spring was cool though, followed by a hot Summer. Key he said was the presence, during the lead up to the harvest, of warm 22 degree days & fresh 10 degree nights (as it was for Nebbiolo in Piedmont!). He was particularly pleased with the fruit that came off their old Nerello vine Crasa vineyard, with pH at 3.20, & alcohols at 13%, so similar to 2018.
On our last trip to Piedmont it was fascinating to taste so many different expressions of Nebbiolo, especially from the re-emerging and captivating region of Alto Piemonte, as well as from the Roero, and the Langhe itself.
Carema
First, we visited Chiussuma, in Carema. Ok technically it is not in the official ‘Alto Piemonte’ appellation, but it feels like it ought to be, at approx. 100m directly North of the village of Barolo, and only approx. 50m West (and a little South) of the famous Bramaterra appellation of Alto Piemonte. Also, it is certainly high altitude. The landscape here is dramatic, strikingly beautiful, and a bit prehistoric (see cover photo). The Chiussuma vines are perched up at 600m asl, pergola trained across old granite columns against a backdrop of ragged rock faces, the surrounding mountains cloaked in mist when we visited on a late May afternoon. The soil here is poorer and rockier than that of the Langhe, made up primarily of granite/mica, carried up the steep slopes from the valley bottom. It has low potassium and low Ph, so good acidity. The grapes undergo slower maturation due to less sun. The diurnal temperature range helps the fruit maintain freshness and aromatics, whilst allowing it to fully ripen during the heat of the day. The rocks retain heat creating a microclimate, and it never freezes here! The Carema 2017 from Chiussuma was the standout wine for me – a blend of Nebbiolo plus 10% ‘Neretti’ (local black grapes): So bright and lovely. Really juicy and sapid. Fragile and long, with lots of crunchy red fruit on the attack, raspberry and wild strawberry, as well as some brooding darker fruit in the background. Gorgeous! Gently spiced, the 3rd Use Tonneaux giving a subtle framing without interfering with the fruit.
Bramaterra
Next, we crossed over East to the ‘real’ Alto Piemonte, to visit Mattia & Odilio Antoniotti’s Bramaterra vineyards, found North West of the Alto Piemonte region, on the West bank of the river Sesia, in a wilderness of thick forest and vegetation, dotted with vines. It used to be a thriving wine producing region in the early 1900s. Then many of the young people left during the industrial revolution, and the vineyards were neglected and became engulfed by the forest. Today it begins to return to its former glory! The soils in Alto Piemonte are generally younger, rockier, more acidic and richer in minerals but less fertile than the Langhe. The soil in Bramaterra is volcanic! Pink Porphry rock with veins of rose quartz and limestone, producing extremely pure and concentrated wines. Gattinara and Bramaterra are both volcanic and acidic but Gattinara is rich in iron. Bramaterra and Boca have less iron and more manganese. Gattinara reaches higher altitude than Bramaterra, though the highest point (600m asl) is not planted to vines. The 2016 Bramaterra from Antoniotti was just stunning: perfumed and high toned. Alpine-fresh, wild herbs, rosewater purity, opening out to dark cherry, kirsch and cedar. Vertical, with very fine silky tannins, poised and compelling. Will be fascinating to see how it develops with age.
Sizzano
Then onto Sizzano, and Cantina Comero. Sizzano lies South East of Bramaterra, below Ghemme, and on the East side of the river Sesia. Gattinara and Ghemme may be the only DOCG in Alto Piemonte, but Sizzano is the oldest DOC: (1969). Farà and Boca are both Colline Novaresi DOC. The latter 3 appellations have more alluvial, soft and morainic soils. You can get some seriously good value wines here, often cheaper than other Nebbioli of similar quality. Frustratingly for producers, Sizzano can’t yet be declassified as Colline Novaresi Nebbiolo, but this may change. This zone is still quite undiscovered. The wines of Paolo Cominoli are bright and alive, from young vines with plenty of generous fruit. The standout wine for me was the 16 Sizzano: Pretty and fragrant, notes of cranberry and rose, quite relaxed and at ease. Finely grained tannins, lots of juicy red fruit and a lovely velvety almost creamy texture, gently sculpted.
Roero
Driving South East, we reached the Roero, which begins just above Verduno, the Northernmost village of the Langhe region. As Geology expert Dr. Edmondo Bonelli says, “One factor links together the three zones of The Roero and the Langhe: they have emerged on a geological substrate of seabed origin constituted by marls, sands, and calcareous sandstones. But within each production area are different geological formations as well, which generate different soils, each of which bears the imprint of the originating formation.” In the Roero the soil is mostly younger and sandier vs the Langhe. The sandiest soils are between 2 and 4 million years old. The Nebbioli tend to be softer and lighter in body and structure, with more gentle tannins, and a pretty red fruit character. Our visit to Alberto Oggero in Santo Stefano Roero was eye-opening. These wines are such a fine expression of place, with real lightness of touch. The 2016 Roero le Coste was singing: Vibrant red and peachy fruit on the nose with crushed rose petal. Very fresh and precise, and yet soft, with real lightness of touch, lots of matter and an expansive quality at the end of the palate. 16 was quite a balanced vintage, revealing a little more complexity vs 2017. Steel then tonneaux for 14 months. Very ‘classico’, almost Burgundian in style.
Langhe
And finally, to the Langhe (Barolo & Barbaresco). To summarise very briefly (!), the sea evaporated earlier here, so the soils are older and harder than in the Roero. The Langhe topsoils of sand that still cover the Roero have been eroded over the extra millennia in the Langhe to leave the bare bones of clay & Marne in Barolo, whist Barbaresco is more influenced by the river action and soils, and by the Astijiani sand from the North East, as well as the weather from the Pianura Padana. The sandiest soils in the Langhe are 10million years old (over twice the age of those in the Roero)! And the famous Sant’Agata Blue Marl is 8-11 million years old (from the Tortonian age).
In Barbaresco we visited Manuel Marinacci in San Rocco Seno d’Elvio; a village that separates Barbaresco from Neive. It lies on a Blue Marl bedrock and has some clay and limestone too. It is much rockier than Roero, with less sand as it has all eroded. The marl gives minerality and depth, and soaks up the water, keeping the roots hydrated throughout the year. I loved the 2015 Barbaresco: Bright ruby red, clear and glistening. Balsamic and pomegranate. Quince, rosemary, thyme, silky, cleansing. Pretty, elegant but full. 1-month maceration and 30 months in botte grandi.
In Barolo we visited Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno, based in the heart of Canubbi. A standout wine for me was the 2015 Barolo Novello from the high, single Bergera-Pozzole vineyard in the comune of Novello, overlooking the river Tanaro below & the Maritime Alps in the distance, on heavier calcareous clay soils, steeply sloped and South facing: Lovely strawberry fruit nose, pot pourrit, floral scented. Very sumptuous, elegant, finely woven together. Fluid and harmonious, with some crunch, lift, and that energy you find across Emanuella’s wines, and with a spine of prominent tannins lending just the right amount of structure. 20 days fermentation and maceration in big barrel. Then into one botte of 49 HL for 32 months before bottled Summer 2018.
Sicilia, Etna – Rori Parasiliti at SRC Vini counts himself lucky to have escaped the recent hailstorm that hit parts of Randazzo. “Uva perfetta”, he says! Flowering occurred without incident; August saw lots of rain, but September has been hot. Still a month to go, with quantity up 30% on 2017.
Basilicata, Vulture – Luca Carbone in Melfi is also in good spirits, with both good quantity & quality! A classic stagione; summer was rainy, & they weren’t hit by peronospera (downy mildew). Dry & sunny September augurs well. Aglianico harvest due on 2nd October.
Puglia, Manduria – Lisa Morella says (in a broad Puglian/Aussie accent!) that they’ve seen everything this year! Warm spring, no extreme heat during the summer, but heat accumulation gave rise to an August CYCLONE! This apparently spiralled round the Southern Med, spitting hail stones at them twice! Whites & Primitivo have fared better than later ripening Malbek & Negroamaro, whose leaves were shattered. Lots of selection required, so 20/30% less crop. But good acidity, & the Negroamaro’s turned out a juicy Rosato, that I sense may be repeated!
Sardegna, Carbonia – Enrico Esu thanks the gods for his old vine Carignano! It’s been a complicated year, the free standing alberello on sand Carignano vines drenched by the same cyclone that hit Puglia, depositing 80mm of rain in August. Now as he kicks off the harvest (on 17th Sept), it’s the old vines that have stood firm & supported the younger crop with good sugar levels. The complete opposite of 2017, he says!
Toscana, Montalcino – Loredana at Scopetone, & Andrea at La Serena, also point to contrasting vintages: being organic, in 2018 they’ve constantly been in the vineyards, keeping ahead of the peronospera; while in 2017, they never went in! The vintage started well with a good flowering, but then it’s rained a lot from May to August. Selection is key, due to much fruit variability. It won’t be a 2015 or 2016, says Loredana, who intends to harvest her Sangiovese for Brunello starting 1st October.
Toscana, Gaiole-in-Chianti – Roberto Stucchi Prinetti at Badia a Coltibuono proudly declares they’ve used 2.5kg/hectare of copper this year, well below the 6kg allowed by ecocert/organic rules. This he says has been particularly important for the soil to breathe & perform in a challenging vintage such as 2018. The vines have been constantly damp, under attack from peronospera, August mild & so leading to a later than normal harvest. The skin is delicate this year.
Abruzzo, Collecorvino – across on the Adriatic east coast, Fabrizio Mazzocchetti at Tenuta del Priore knows it ain’t going to be another 2017, a vintage he looks back & describes as “perfetta!” While flowering was fine, May to July this year saw too much rain! August was “discreto” While September has been bello. So lots of temperature & weather variation. Quantity is up; Pecorino (fortunately!) & Passerina look good so far.
The Marche, Castelli di Jesi – just further north, Riccardo at La Staffa is a happy bunny! “Uva bellissima, sanita perfetta!”Although May & June were challenging due to the rain & heat, & with July fresher & damp, he’s proud to say that being organic has meant having to be on top of the situation: leaving lots of leaves to protect the fruit when the 35degree days hit during August. Working sensitively in the rows, & pressing whole bunch, has meant keeping the pH low & the acidity still up! New ‘Mai Sentito’ Rosso from Lacrima (di Morro) beckons!
Friulia-Venezia Giulia, Colli Orientali – Marco Sara is harvesting under the sun, albeit 10 days earlier than average! July & August saw just enough rain, September has been “splendido” with fresh nights favouring Friulano & Verduzzo in particular. No problem with peronospera in the hills (but he senses it’s harder on the plain). Reds/Schioppettino looks promising too!
Veneto, Fumane – Zeno Zignoli at Monte dei Ragni was hoping for another 2015 or 2016, but instead he reckons that 2018 is looking more like a 2012 or 2014 (which weren’t bad I remind him, if more classic!) July & August had been fine, hot & with enough rain, but it was the 175 mm of rain in 2 hrs early in September that necessitated much fruit thinning. Not that he’s had any problems with rot. Just that the ripeness is not quite as much as he’d hoped!
Veneto, Asolo – further north, Luca Ferraro at Prosecco Asolo’s Bele Casel is thankful for the autochthonous varieties of Bianchetta, Rabbiosa & Manzoni that have suffered less, been riper & given fresh edge to the bloated Glera. Budding started late, but harvest on 3rd Sept was anticipato. With the crop now in, the vintage recalls 2014: good quantity, good health, sugar on the low side, but acidity good. Overall a good complexity.
Piemonte, Langhe – Francesco Versio talks of a slightly unbalanced vintage, & of the need for fresh nights to enable Nebbiolo to ripen fully over the next month…without any more rain! After a cold snowy winter – the deepest since 2010/2011? – May was very wet, then July, August & the first half of September have been relatively hot & quite humid, bringing on bouts of peronospera. The Roero whites (& Tortonian Timorasso) have been picked under sunny skies, but the lighter red grapes (Dolcetto & Barbera) have found the going tough; Nebbiolo looks promising but now for the waiting game as we pray for fresher nights & cooler days…that kicked in on Monday 24 September with the arrival of La Bora (NE cool, fresh, drying) wind!! Growers should now be encouraged to wait & harvest Nebbiolo late!
Alto Adige, Sudtirol – from Italy’s most northern wine region, 520metres high up among the Dolomitic rocks of the Alto Adige region, Thomas Niedermayr & his family wrap up the 2018 harvest that started on 17 August, earlier than 2017 (end Aug.) due to a drier, healthy season. A long cold winter set the scene; spring was beautiful, then early summer was drizzly to June, then July & August were hot & dry. Disease pressure was low & the (mostly white) PIWI grape varieties required only a couple of sulphur treatments & no copper; Weissburgunder/Pinot Bianco saw eleven treatments (copper sulphate) by comparison. The PIWI grapes, & early ripening Solaris in particular, are targeted by wasps & birds, necessitating the use of nets during the final month pre-harvest.
Just back from Etna and the buzz & excitement of the ‘Contrade dell’Etna’ 2019 tasting, which took place in the Castello di Romeo in Randazzo, showcasing current and future releases from across Etna. The Contrade are small areas (within the larger Frazione) on Etna where vines are grown, and each is determined by a number of elements including altitude, soil, exposition, and microclimate.
There’s something truly magical about Etna. The views are dramatic, with vines perched on slopes from 450m up to 1200m asl, the snow-capped volcano above, the sooty black soils beneath, and the shimmering blue of the Mediterranean in the distance. Then you have the delicious food, the musical language, and the warm and spirited souls of the people. Unsurprising perhaps that the wines are also enchanting! The culture of wine making here is ancient, and many of the vineyards today date back to the early 1900s, pre-Phylloxera (apparently the mineral-rich soils helped to ward of the Phylloxera bugs!) It never ceases to amaze me how these old and gnarly plants can give birth to vivacious wines of such beautiful purity, finesse, and power. There must be something in the lava…….and its catching! The Etna DOC was only created in 1968, and 20yrs ago there were very few producers of quality wines on Etna (hardly more than 10 I was told). Today there are apparently about 150, and a high percentage of the growers are from the Etna region itself.
At the ‘Contrade dell’Etna’ it was fascinating to compare the Etna reds and whites from the North, South, East and West (thought interestingly, the Etna DOC does not cover wines made on the Western slopes). In truth, it was tricky to identify key traits belonging to each Contrada, this still being a relatively young and undeveloped concept, but easier instead to identify those belonging to the wider geographical areas, with many factors to consider. Firstly, the altitude, which is normally limited to maximum 850m asl for Etna Rosso DOC and Etna Bianco DOC (though it depends on slope), with many excellent wines being made at significantly higher altitude. Next, the Lava! Alberto Graci suggested that the main difference in the soil depends on the age of the lava, rather than its composition. Etna is the largest active volcano in Europe, and has destroyed working vineyards before, most recently during its latest eruption in 1981, when some San Lorenzo vineyards in Randazzo were engulfed by lava. Rori Pasaliti of SRC Vini said that more recent eruptions have left a sandier and more fertile top soil, however the differences can only really be noticed after a substantial amount of time (a thousand years or more….!) Stephanie Biondi from Ciro Biondi winery commented that the North side of Etna is on old lava flows, whereas the South side is on volcanic cones. Another grower at the event, Federico Curtaz, suggested that there is a philosophical element to the volcano’s power too; the possibility of an eruption at any moment making growers strive to do their best every day, with the towering peak of the mountain reminding them to aim ever higher!
Other key influences include the vineyard exposition, the air, and the microclimate. There is the influence of the sea in the South, and the cool mountain air in the North. Harvest tends to be earlier in the South, with more plentiful heat from the sun, though at the same time there is more rain to maintain freshness – especially key in hotter vintages. The Northern slopes are generally recognised as top sites for reds. Having tasted from various growers at the event, it could be said that the reds on the Northern side are more serious, benefiting from a cooler climate, and larger diurnal temperature range, which allows the vines respite in the evenings, preventing them from overheating, and preserving that archetypal freshness and acidity that is so loved about Etna wines. The South/South Eastern slopes are generally recognised as top sites for whites (the Contrada of Milo is home to the only Etna Bianco Superiore DOCG). Whites from these areas appeared to be a little saltier and more herbal than their notably floral Northern counterparts. Stephanie from Ciro Biondi suggested that the whites from the south are crunchier, flintier and more laser-like in acidity. The Southern slopes are still relatively undiscovered though, with 85/90% of Etna wines being made in the North.
It seems to me that Etna is a climate that nurtures a sort of super-vine! Not only do the vines give birth to extremely age worthy wines, but they are often disease resistant too! Rori Pasailiti explained how his vineyards in the Randazzo Contrada of Calderarra and the Castiglione di Sicilia Contrada of Crasà do not have any chemical treatments whatsoever. There is no smog, no pollution, just the pure mountain air, and the mineral rich soils, lending themselves perfectly to organic agriculture, and creating an environment so rich in biodiversity that the plants appear to be naturally disease resistant.
In terms of the distinct differences in terroir from one Contrada to another then, although they may strive to one day be compared to Langhe/Roero MGAs, there is still some way to go, but it’ll be an exciting journey to follow!
Below are some of my standout wines from the tasting (2018 vintage was balanced, easy, and relatively cool, with no great hot spells or wet spells, and 2017 was warm, with almost no rain at all and a very hot Summer):
SRC, 2018 Alberello Rosso: tasted April 2019 from tank – due to be released in 2020. Single vineyard Nerello Mascalese, from 100yo vines up at 650m asl in the Contrada of Crasà in Castigllione di Sicilia (North Etna). The perfume a little closed at first, but then slowly opening in the glass. So pure, bright, and high toned. Affinamento in cement only. Essential oil, roses, raspberry, wild herbs, alpine fresh, elegant and so fine. Stunning.
Buscemi, 2017 Tartaraci Rosso: tasted April 2019 from bottle, not to be released until Spring 2020, after more time in bottle. From 90 yo, free-standing alberello trained vines at 950m asl in the Contrada of Tartaraci (North West Etna). 70% Nerello Cappuccio & Mascalese, 30% Granaccia. Affinamento partly in tonneau, partly cement, then blended. Perfumed, with violets and floral notes, little red fruits, peppery. Alive, exciting, with great depth. Hint of liquorice, eucalyptus, tannins still very prominent. Great ageing potential.
Federico Curtaz, 2018 Etna Bianco DOC ‘Gamma’: tasted April 2019 tank sample. From the Contrada of Milo and Biancavilla (South East Etna). 100% carricante, stainless steel only. Crystalline, such freshness, austere but lovely. Citrus, lime blossom, exotic fruit, mountain herbs and flowers. Mineral, vibrant, racy. Volcanic!
Ciro Biondi, 2018 Etna Bianco DOC ‘Outis’: tasted April 2019 tank sample. Blend of grapes from older parts of the vineyards in Tre Castagne, from the Contrade of San Niccolò and Ronzini (South East Etna, on the volcanic coast). Stainless steel only. Mainly Carricante, some Minella and Cataratto. Very salty fresh with herbal and citrus notes, lemon verbena, wild thyme, so pure. On the palate saline, taught and cleansing, with a racy spine of mouth-watering acidity, and lovely texture.