The Caligaris family cantina is tucked away in the centre of Gattinara, Alto Piemonte. They can trace their lineage back to the 1500s, & almost certainly to i tempi Romani, as ‘la càliga‘ was a type of sandal worn by Roman (soldiers) garrisoned nearby.
Luca Caligaris is now making the wines at this tiny family estate, assisted by his father Alessandro & mamma Rita. Luca started in 1997, continuing the family tradition passed down from nonno Guido. Luca has a diploma in Perito Agraria, & has studied Viticoltura & Enologia. He is in the process of renovating the ancient family home & cantina.
The family has circa 2ha, of which 1ha is dedicated to growing Nebbiolo da Gattinara in the vineyards of Lurghe, Marzole, & Osso; the latter 350m asl high up among the trees, full south on almost bare porfido rock. The vineyard work is ‘lotte integrato’, doesn’t use herbicides, & the fruit from the vineyards are co-fermented together at the cantina. Luca’s Gattinara comprises 100% Nebbiolo, but in some years he may incorporate a tiny percentage of Uva Rara (up to 10% is allowed in the DOCG). While the wild-growing luppolo (hops) is reserved for the ‘frittate‘!
They produce five wines: Vino ‘Rosso di Sara’ (named after his daughter, a blend of Nebbiolo + Uva Rara, Neretto, Vespolina, & Croatina), DOC Coste della Sesia Rosa di Martina (after the second daughter, a Rosato), DOC Coste della Sesia Nebbiolo (85/90% Nebbiolo), DOCG Gattinara (100% Nebbiolo), DOCG Gattinara Riserva (in exceptional annate).
The wines are classically made, 100% destemmed, fermented in stainless-steel &/or fibre glass, with 3wk long pumping over macerations + delestaggio, MLF in wood, followed by 2 years affinamento in 15/25HL botti for Gattinara. Total sulphur is circa 70mg/Litro at bottling. The new Gattinara vintage is released from 1st October of the third year.
Compared to the porphory & white caolino soils of Bramaterra to the west, the hill of Gattinara appears as a single block of porfido overlooking the river Sesia below, rich with pyrite iron crystals, producing wines of structure & longevity.
Vino ‘Rosso di Sara’
DOC Coste della Sesia ‘Rosa di Martina’
DOC Coste della Sesia Nebbiolo
DOCG Gattinara
DOCG Gattinara Riserva