28 August 2023
Emerging from ‘chiusura‘ here in Italia, I reflect on that February visit to Lombardia’s stunning Valtellina region, north-east of Milano. Outside of the Langhe & Roero, I think it would be fair to say that Valtellina joins Alto Piemonte as a source of fine Nebbiolo-based wines, or should I say Chiavennasca…
And just as with Alto Piemonte, & indeed Etna, so the risorgimento of Valtellina also seems to date back to the early 2000s, when a new generation of vignaioli (vignerons) appeared, prompted by a drop in the market (price) & hence the possibility to rent decent vineyards & buy fruit affordably. This situation was triggered by the then largest bottler, Nino Negri, apparently changing their grape supply policy; while in 2010 the cantina sociale, ‘Enologica Valtellina’, went bust. These events encouraged small producers such as Dirupi, Mozzi, Barbacàn, Boffalora, Mattia Franzina & others to enter the market & begin making artisan wines from terraces of old masale selection vines, embroidered by wild fichi d’india – all uncanny similarities to Etna. And as with Etna & Alto Piemonte, so Valtellina was once ‘carpeted’ with 6,000 hectares of vines during the 19th century, before rapidly contracting post WWII to today’s coverage of circa 850ha, so the equivalent of Barbaresco.
The valley of Valtellina runs in a west-east line that begins almost on the banks of the Lago di Como – itself an influence. The valley topography recalls more the Côte d’Or than for example the cross-like shape of Alto Piemonte, or the volcanic apron effect around Etna, or indeed compared to the twisting, curving complexity of the Langhe & Roero. This regional symmetry makes it simpler to understand & to navigate. For just as the RN74 runs along Burgundy’s 50km ‘Golden Slope’, with only the village order to remember, so in Valtellina it’s the SS38 – running alongside the river Adda – that delivers you from one end of the valley to the other, from the villages of Ardenno in the west to Tirano further east, a distance of 45km.
Given the steep gradient, most of the key vineyards are terraced & largely face South West, South or South East, ensuring a certain consistency of ripeness. The river Adda tempers the valley mesoclimate, especially during winter as the Valtellina region lies on the 46 latitude. In summer, the terraces are air-conditioned, west to east, by breezes originating from the Lago di Como; the river Adda carrying lively air currents back & forth. The vines are also protected by the presence of two mountain ranges: in front facing the vines, the Alpi Orbie protects from any torrid southerlies or indeed from burning sun (so the slopes warm up gradually!); while lying on Valtellina’s back are the Alpi Retiche, keeping the cold from the North at bay.
These mountain ranges also affect rainfall, reducing it to an average of 900mm/during the growing season compared to more than 2000mm outside the valley. Aspect & altitude of the vineyards seem more important than the actual composition of the soils, which are quite similar the length of the valley: a mix of schist, granite/sand, mica, gneiss, & morainic. And as per the likes of the Carema region, so in the past alluvial soil from the Adda was carried up to infill the terraces. Assessing site, there appear to be three bands of terraced vineyards: up to 250m asl, between 250 -450m, & above 450metres. The pancia (250-450m) lies in the heart of the slope & is the place to be. Consequently there’s good diurnal shift in temperature, preserving acidities & perfumes.
Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca) is key, but other local varieties such as Rossola, Pignola & Merlina also add nuance & can make up 10% of the final wine (along with any non-indigenous varieties). The four levels of Valtellina wines are: DOC Rosso di Valtellina, DOCG Valtellina Superiore (215ha), Valtellina Superiore ‘Sottozona/MGA/Cru’ (25ha Maroggia, 114ha Sassella, 78ha Grumello, 55ha Inferno, & 137ha Valgella), Valtellina Superiore Riserva, plus ‘Sforzato di Valtellina’, a passito version popular with the locals. Permited yields are similar to the Langhe: Rosso at 65hl/ha (100 quintals), & Valtellina Superiore at 52hl/ha (80 q.); but in hectolitres of wine, Valtellina Superiore can yield more per hectare (60hl) than Barolo at 56hl. Ageing of Valtellina Superiore & VS Sottozone/Cru is 24mths, of which 12 mths must be in wood barrels; for Riserva, 36 mths. Valtellina Superiore was awarded DOC in 1968, & DOCG in 1998.
As for the wines, & agreeing with the conclusions of Alessandro Masnaghetti Editore/ENOGEA (2015 2nd edition), the general characteristics of the key Sottozone/MGA/Crus appear to be: gentle contoured Maroggia (2 producers in 2015) at the western, open end of the valley, offers suave delicacy; steep Sassella (21 producers) at the heart of the Valtellina Superiore zone is more vertical & taut (even if aspect swings from SE to SW); pure south, deep soils of Grumello (13 producers) give more volume & flesh; alongside, rich in clay, Inferno (14 producers) offers power & structure; while at the eastern end, the Valgella (15 producers) zone is well extended, but generally is high & cool, giving nervy wines.
Comparing Valtellina wines to those of Alto Piemonte & Basso Piemonte (Roero & Langhe), one might assume that the wines of Alto Piemonte & Valtellina would be similar, given their pre-Alp locations & (essentially) acidic soils, & yet they’re very different. Looking at approximate analysis of alcohol, total acidity, & pH. Valtellina alcohols are c.14%, total acidity at a softer 4.50/5g/litro, & their pH at a malleable c.3.60/70.
Meanwhile, a bit further south on the 45th parallel, Alto Piemonte is more exposed & cooler, its gentler slopes (not terraces) often surrounded by woods, lower in altitude, its vyd. aspects more varied, & it endures a higher average rainfall (c.1000mm). Therefore Alto Piemonte wines tend to be fresh (acidity 5.50/6.00), with modest alcohol (13.5/14%), a sinewy body (pH3.64), & a crunchier structure than those of Valtellina. The use of other grapes in Alto Piemonte wines, such as the lighter Vespolina, only re-inforce their pretty, perfumed character.
In contrast, on the 44th parallel, among the sandy hills of the Roero alcohols generally arrive at (14.5/15%), bright acidities of 5/5.30, & minerally pHs of c.3.60; the (fruit) tannins tend to be gentler too, due to younger soils. Meanwhile the Barolos of the Langhe have significant alcohol (c.14.5+%) from a warmer drier climate further south, but balanced by a sapid calcareous minerality of pH3.50, good acidity (5.50) & a prominent tannic structure due to the cool, damp marne bedrock; Langhe wines benefit from more time in bottle.
The Superiore wines of Valtellina would therefore seem to display the presence/volume of the Langhe without the richness (alc%), nor (tannic) structure or (sedimentary) sapidity. This may be due to terroir, & to the above analysis, or because ageing is for a shorter period in less oak (2 yrs vs 3yrs for Barolo); a factor maybe also the 10% presence of other varieties permitted in the final wine. This translates into a medium/full bodied, distinctly fleshy but fresh Nebbiolo wine that’s more approachable younger.